A plantable Christmas tree offers a sustainable alternative to a cut tree, serving as a holiday centerpiece before finding a permanent home in the landscape. These living trees are typically sold in two forms: containerized (grown and sold in a pot) or balled-and-burlapped (B&B). B&B trees are dug from the ground with the root ball encased in burlap and often a wire basket. Choosing a living tree promotes environmental health by planting a new evergreen. Success depends entirely on proper species selection and meticulous care during and after its brief time indoors.
Selecting Species Suitable for Transplantation
The first step in choosing a plantable Christmas tree is selecting a species that can tolerate being moved indoors during its dormant winter period. Pines, spruces, and firs are common options, but their suitability varies significantly by region. Check the species’ hardiness zone against the local USDA Plant Hardiness Zone map, which indicates the minimum winter temperature an evergreen can tolerate.
Species like Scots Pine and Eastern White Pine are good choices because they adapt well to various soils and transplanting. Spruces, such as the Colorado Blue Spruce or Norway Spruce, are popular but may require specific soil conditions or perform better in cooler climates. True firs, like the Douglas Fir or White Fir, offer excellent needle retention and fragrance but are more sensitive to root disturbance and heat.
The mature size of the tree is a primary consideration, as most evergreens used for holiday display eventually reach heights of 40 to 60 feet. Ensure the chosen planting site has adequate space for the tree’s eventual spread and height before purchase. Opting for a tree native to your region or known to thrive in your local climate will increase the chances of survival after planting.
Essential Indoor Survival Care
The tree’s survival hinges on minimizing disruption to its natural winter dormancy cycle. The duration it remains inside should not exceed seven to ten days. Keeping the tree indoors for too long can cause it to break dormancy and put out new growth, which freezing temperatures will immediately damage once the tree is moved back outside.
Placement within the home requires a location away from all heat sources, including fireplaces, heat vents, and direct sunlight, which rapidly dry out the foliage and root ball. Place the tree in the coolest room possible to maintain a temperature that does not encourage active growth. If lights are used, they must be low-heat varieties, such as LED bulbs, to prevent the needles from drying out.
Proper watering is essential, as the root ball must never dry out completely. The root ball of a B&B tree is smaller than the tree’s original root system, making it prone to desiccation. Place the root ball in a large, watertight tub or container for thorough, controlled watering. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist, not waterlogged. Check the soil moisture daily and water with a small amount of water or a tray of ice cubes to allow for slow, deep saturation.
Successfully Transitioning and Planting the Tree
Moving the evergreen from the warm indoors to the cold outdoors requires a transitional period called hardening off, which prevents temperature shock. Immediately after the holiday, move the tree to an unheated, sheltered space, such as a cool garage, enclosed porch, or shed, for two to seven days. This intermediate step allows the tree to gradually re-acclimate to colder temperatures before being exposed to the winter environment.
Once the tree has hardened off, it is ready for permanent planting, provided the ground is not frozen solid. If the ground is frozen, the tree must remain in its sheltered, unheated location, with the root ball kept moist, until the soil is workable. In cold climates, dig the planting hole before the ground freezes and store the removed soil in a protected area so it remains loose for backfilling.
The planting hole should be two to three times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as its height. This ensures the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the surrounding grade. Planting too deep is a common error that can suffocate the roots. Before backfilling with native soil, remove all twine and ropes securing the root ball. Cut away the top third of the burlap and any wire cage to allow roots to extend without obstruction. After positioning and backfilling, thoroughly water the tree to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Apply a three-inch layer of organic mulch around the base, kept a few inches away from the trunk, to retain moisture and regulate temperature.