Philodendrons are popular houseplants, but the choice of container is foundational to their long-term health, primarily by preventing root rot. Selecting the correct pot material, size, and ensuring proper water flow creates an optimal environment. The right container helps regulate soil moisture, which is crucial for philodendron cultivation.
How Pot Material Affects Moisture
Philodendrons thrive when their soil is allowed to dry out slightly between waterings, and the pot material dictates how quickly moisture evaporation occurs. Unglazed terracotta is a highly porous material, allowing air and water vapor to pass directly through its walls. This wicking action accelerates soil drying, making it an excellent choice for individuals who tend to overwater or for plants in high-humidity environments.
In contrast, plastic pots and glazed ceramic pots are non-porous and retain water much longer. This retention is beneficial for growers who water less frequently or for plants in dry indoor environments. Glazed ceramic seals the clay’s natural porosity, giving it similar moisture retention properties to plastic. The choice between these non-porous options should align with the grower’s specific habits and the ambient humidity level of the home.
Choosing the Right Diameter and Depth
The pot size relative to the root mass directly impacts soil moisture and root health. When repotting a philodendron, choose a new container only one to two inches larger in diameter than the current pot. This controlled increase allows the roots to grow into the fresh soil without being overwhelmed.
Placing a small plant into a much larger pot is a common mistake because the excess, uncolonized soil holds water the plant cannot absorb quickly. This creates a saturated, oxygen-poor zone at the bottom of the pot, increasing the risk of root decay. Vining philodendrons, which have a more lateral root structure, often prefer a slightly wider pot. Self-heading philodendrons, which grow more upright, may benefit from a pot with greater depth over time to accommodate their deeper anchoring roots.
Essential Drainage Considerations
The presence of drainage holes is crucial for philodendron health, regardless of the pot material or size. Any pot used must have holes at the base to ensure excess water escapes after watering. Standing water remaining in the pot is the primary trigger for root rot, a fungal condition that suffocates the roots.
Adding a layer of gravel or broken pottery shards at the bottom of the pot to improve drainage is ineffective. This layer impedes water flow by creating a distinct boundary between the potting mix and the coarse material. Water accumulates just above this layer, forming a “perched water table” that keeps the lower portion of the root ball saturated.
To use a decorative pot without drainage holes, known as a cachepot, the philodendron should be kept in a separate, appropriately sized plastic nursery pot. After watering the inner pot until water flows out, lift the plant out of the cachepot to allow complete drainage. The decorative outer pot must be emptied of any collected water before the plant is placed back inside, ensuring the root ball never sits in a stagnant reservoir.