Raccoons (Procyon lotor) are highly adaptable, omnivorous mammals that have successfully transitioned from forest dwellers to common urban and suburban residents. Their nocturnal foraging habits and remarkable dexterity often lead them to human food sources and sheltered spaces, causing damage and creating a nuisance. Deterring these intelligent animals requires a proactive, multi-layered approach focusing on exclusion, elimination of attractants, and sensory disruption. This article details the specific materials and methods for effective, long-term raccoon deterrence.
Physical Barriers and Exclusion Materials
Physical exclusion is the most reliable long-term strategy for preventing raccoons from accessing vulnerable areas like attics, chimneys, and crawl spaces. Heavy-gauge hardware cloth, a welded wire mesh, is the material used for sealing structural vulnerabilities. Use a mesh size of one-half inch or, preferably, one-quarter inch to prevent the raccoon from reaching a paw through the openings.
This robust material should cover foundation gaps, secure attic and crawl space vents, and block entry points around decks and porches. For chimneys, a durable metal chimney cap with a secure screen prevents animals from entering the flue. Hardware cloth must be buried at least 12 inches deep and flared outward from the structure to prevent raccoons from digging underneath.
Securing outdoor containers, particularly garbage cans, requires specific locking mechanisms to defeat the raccoon’s dexterity. Heavy-duty strap locks, often employing a metal double-claw clasp, are effective at preventing the lid from being pried open. Simple bungee cords can also be used, but they must be taut and looped multiple times over the lid and handles to resist persistent pulling.
For garden or pond protection, a low-voltage electric fence provides an effective psychological deterrent. This barrier typically consists of two wires, one placed four to six inches off the ground and a second eight to twelve inches off the ground. An energizer generating 4,000 to 5,000 volts is recommended to deliver a non-harmful shock that penetrates the raccoon’s thick fur.
Eliminating Food and Shelter Attractants
Raccoons are motivated by the availability of food and shelter, making the removal of these attractants essential for deterrence. All pet food and water bowls should be brought indoors overnight. Bird feeders must either be removed entirely or replaced with squirrel-proof models that prevent seed spillage.
Food waste within garbage cans should be double-bagged to contain odors, which are the main attractant. Trash containers should only be placed outside immediately before collection. Regularly clean up any fallen fruit from trees or berry bushes, and thoroughly clean outdoor grills after each use to remove grease and food residue.
The property should be inspected for potential den sites, as raccoons seek secure, dry places to rest and raise their young. This involves clearing brush piles, removing debris, and ensuring woodpiles are stacked tightly and located away from the main structure. Sealing access points to sheds, garages, and under-deck areas removes readily available shelter.
Sensory and Chemical Deterrents
Deterrents that irritate the raccoon’s heightened senses reinforce physical barriers and discourage foraging behavior. Motion-activated sprinklers, or hydro-deterrents, use a passive infrared (PIR) sensor to detect the animal’s body heat and movement. When triggered, the device sprays a sudden burst of water, startling the animal and conditioning it to avoid the area.
Chemical repellents work by applying aversive tastes or smells to areas like ornamental plants or garden perimeters. Capsaicin, the compound responsible for the heat in chili peppers, is a common active ingredient in commercial granular and spray repellents. A solution made from cayenne pepper can be applied to non-food items, as the taste irritates the raccoon’s sensitive paws and mouth.
Strong scents, such as ammonia or bleach, can be used to clean and disinfect trash receptacles to eliminate attractive food odors. These chemicals should not be used as area repellents, however, as they can harm pets, damage vegetation, and pose an environmental risk. While some electronic devices emit high-frequency ultrasonic sounds, their effectiveness is often limited because raccoons quickly become habituated to the noise.
When Professional Removal is Necessary
While deterrence methods prevent entry, situations where a raccoon has already established residence within a structure require professional intervention. Signs of an active infestation and potential nesting include persistent scratching noises in the attic or walls, torn insulation, or the presence of a strong, musky odor.
A professional wildlife control operator is necessary when the animal is inside the home because they are trained to handle animals that may be sick or aggressive, especially if young are present. Furthermore, attempting to trap and relocate a raccoon yourself is often illegal, as many jurisdictions require special permits or licensed operators to handle and transport wildlife.
The transport of live raccoons is often prohibited due to rabies quarantine laws, necessitating a professional for legal disposal or relocation to an authorized site. If an animal appears disoriented, aggressive, or exhibits other signs of disease like distemper or rabies, it should never be approached, and a wildlife specialist or animal control should be contacted immediately.