What to Put in the Hole When Planting Tomatoes

The success of a robust tomato harvest begins the moment the plant is placed into the ground. Tomatoes are heavy feeders, requiring a sustained supply of nutrients to support vigorous growth and fruit production. The initial planting hole serves as a concentrated, slow-release reservoir of the necessary elements the young plant needs to establish a strong root system. Modifying the soil in this specific area ensures the plant has immediate access to structural support, beneficial biology, and essential minerals during its vulnerable establishment phase.

Building the Foundation (Soil Amendments)

The first step in preparing the planting hole is to improve the soil’s physical structure, allowing for better air, water, and root movement. Incorporating high-quality organic material is the most effective way to achieve this. Finished compost, rich in stable organic matter, helps heavy clay soils drain more effectively while increasing the water-holding capacity of sandy soils.

Adding aged manure, such as cow or chicken, provides a gentle, long-term source of nutrients and beneficial microbial activity. Materials like peat moss or coir can also be mixed in to promote aeration and moisture retention. These amendments must be thoroughly blended with the native soil removed from the hole, rather than simply layered, to create a uniform environment for the developing root ball.

Essential Nutrient Boosters

Beyond basic organic matter, targeted nutrient supplements provide the nutrients tomatoes need for immediate growth and future fruiting. Bone meal, derived from steamed and ground animal bones, is a concentrated source of phosphorus, necessary for strong root development and flower production. A typical application involves mixing about a half-cup of bone meal into the lower portion of the planting hole.

Slow-release granular fertilizers, ideally those with a lower nitrogen content—such as a 4-6-3 NPK ratio—are used to provide sustained feeding throughout the season. These formulations support vegetative growth without promoting excessive foliage at the expense of fruit production. Worm castings, essentially earthworm manure, serve as an excellent gentle fertilizer, supplying a wide range of micronutrients and beneficial microbes without the risk of burning tender roots.

Epsom salts, or magnesium sulfate, are often included to provide magnesium, which is necessary for photosynthesis. Excessive amounts of magnesium can interfere with the plant’s ability to absorb calcium. Only add this booster if a magnesium deficiency is suspected, or in a small amount with the other amendments.

Targeting Calcium Deficiency

A common issue in tomato cultivation is Blossom End Rot (BER), which presents as a dark, sunken spot on the bottom of the fruit. This disorder is caused by a localized calcium deficiency, often triggered by inconsistent watering or a soil pH that locks up the available calcium. Ensuring a steady supply of calcium in the root zone from the start is a preventative measure.

Gypsum, or calcium sulfate, is a highly recommended amendment because it delivers calcium without significantly altering the soil’s pH level. A quarter-cup of gypsum mixed into the planting hole is a practical amount to provide readily available calcium. Agricultural lime, either calcitic or dolomitic, is an alternative calcium source, but it will raise the soil’s pH, which may not be desirable in soils that are already alkaline.

For a long-term, slow-release source, crushed eggshells can be added to the hole. Since they take many months to decompose and release calcium, eggshells act more as a future soil conditioner than an immediate fix for deficiency.

Mixing and Application Guidelines

The final step is the proper integration of all amendments with the native soil to ensure the plant’s success. All the structural amendments, nutrient boosters, and calcium sources should be thoroughly mixed with the soil removed from the hole.

This technique prevents the concentrated materials from sitting in a dense layer at the bottom, which could injure the roots or impede water movement. Once the mixture is prepared, backfill the hole so that the plant can be settled at the correct depth.

Tomatoes possess the unique ability to sprout new roots directly from their stems when buried. This characteristic is leveraged by removing the lower leaves and planting the seedling deeply, burying a third to a half of the stem in the amended soil. This deep planting technique creates a much larger, stronger root system capable of accessing the entire reservoir of amendments and supporting a heavy harvest.