What to Plant on the West Side of a House

The west side of a house often presents the most significant challenge in landscaping. This exposure requires careful consideration of plant selection and maintenance strategies because the combination of intense afternoon sun and heat can be lethal to non-adapted plants. Choosing species naturally equipped to handle these harsh conditions is necessary for creating a thriving landscape in this difficult location.

Understanding the West-Facing Microclimate

The environmental conditions on the west side of a structure create a unique microclimate defined by extreme heat. While the morning offers cool shade, the area receives the most intense solar radiation from approximately 3 PM until sunset. This late-day sun is particularly harsh because air temperatures are already at their peak for the day.

The hard surfaces of the house, such as masonry or stucco walls, absorb solar energy throughout the afternoon, acting as a thermal mass. This mass radiates intense heat back onto the plants, raising the localized temperature significantly higher than the ambient air. Furthermore, the combination of direct sun, reflected heat, and potential westerly winds dramatically increases the rate of evapotranspiration, rapidly pulling moisture from the soil and the plants themselves, leading to dry soil and wilting.

Recommended Sun-Tolerant Shrubs and Trees

Selecting woody plants with high heat tolerance is necessary for providing structure and height to a west-facing garden. These structural plants must endure both the intense afternoon light and the heat radiating off the house wall. Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia species) is an excellent choice for a small tree, as it requires full sun to bloom profusely and is known for its tolerance of hot, humid weather and drought once established.

Tough shrubs like certain Junipers, Texas Ranger (Leucophyllum frutescens), and heat-adapted Abelia varieties are reliable options for this exposure. Texas Ranger is particularly resilient, featuring silvery-gray foliage that reflects sunlight and a high tolerance for reflected heat. For screening or hedging, Indian Hawthorn (Rhaphiolepis indica) is a durable shrub that handles the heat well and offers attractive foliage and spring flowers. Other options include Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) for its airy appearance and drought resistance, or specific varieties of heat-tolerant roses. These structural plants require deep, consistent watering during their establishment period to develop a robust root system.

Recommended Perennials and Groundcovers

Filling the space around larger shrubs and trees requires herbaceous plants with specific adaptations for surviving intense afternoon heat. Plants with silver, gray, or finely textured foliage are often the best candidates because these features help them reflect light and minimize water loss. Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) is a prime example, offering fragrant, silvery foliage and spikes of violet-purple flowers that thrive in full sun and dry conditions.

Succulent-leaved plants are naturally suited for the hot zone because they store water in their thick leaves and stems. Sedum, or stonecrop, is exceptionally heat and drought-tolerant, with many varieties offering late-season color when other plants are struggling. Coneflowers (Echinacea) are native champions known for their ability to withstand hot, dry conditions and come back reliably each year.

Ornamental grasses, such as Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) and Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), provide texture and movement and are unfussy about soil type, thriving in the full sun of a western exposure. For groundcovers, Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata) and various Thymes offer low-growing, dense coverage that helps shade the soil. Similarly, Yarrow (Achillea) is highly adaptable, tolerates a wide range of conditions, and requires minimal maintenance once established.

Water Management and Soil Preparation

Planting success on the west side begins with proactively addressing the soil’s capacity to retain moisture without becoming waterlogged. Native soil should be amended with organic matter, such as compost or aged manure, mixing two to three inches into the top six to eight inches of the planting area. This material improves the soil structure, acting like a sponge to hold water near the roots while still allowing excess moisture to drain away.

A thick layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or wood chips, is an effective tool for managing the harsh microclimate. Applying a two-to-three-inch layer of mulch over the planting area helps reduce soil temperature by insulating the ground from the direct sun and significantly cuts down on water evaporation. This practice keeps the roots cooler and conserves soil moisture, benefiting even the most drought-tolerant selections.

The most effective watering technique for this high-stress environment is deep and infrequent irrigation, especially during the establishment phase. Instead of light, daily sprinkling, which encourages shallow root growth, plants should be watered deeply until the root zone is saturated, roughly the top foot of soil. Allowing the topsoil to dry out slightly before the next watering encourages the plants to send roots deeper, making them more resilient to the intense heat and dry spells.