The side of a house represents a unique, often challenging microclimate. Planting near a structure involves managing variables such as intense, reflected heat from walls, deep shadows, and poor soil conditions common near foundations. Successfully landscaping this area requires careful consideration of these environmental constraints to ensure plant health while protecting the home’s structural integrity. Homeowners can transform this difficult space into a beautiful, functional extension of the living area.
Essential Site Assessment
Before selecting any plants, conduct a thorough site assessment to understand the specific conditions of the planting area. This involves accurately mapping sun exposure, as the house’s shadow creates distinct zones of light. A south-facing wall typically receives full sun, a north-facing wall remains in deep shade, and west-facing areas endure intense, late-afternoon heat compounded by reflection.
Soil quality is a major consideration, as the ground adjacent to a foundation is frequently composed of compacted construction backfill. This material often contains debris, leading to poor drainage and limited oxygen for root growth. Testing the soil for compaction and drainage is advisable, as plants struggle in the dense, waterlogged conditions commonly found near a home’s perimeter.
Finally, measure the available space between the foundation and any hardscaping, such as a walkway or patio. This determines the mature size of the plants that can be safely used. Selecting plants that will outgrow the space leads to overcrowding and structural issues. A planting bed should ideally be at least six to eight feet deep to accommodate a layered design.
Planning for Foundation Health
The proximity of plants to a house introduces structural and moisture concerns not present in open garden areas. Root systems naturally seek moisture and nutrients, which can conflict with the foundation, sidewalks, and underground utilities. To prevent damage, plant small shrubs at least two feet from the foundation, medium shrubs three feet away, and larger shrubs or small trees four to five feet away, based on their ultimate spread.
The danger of root intrusion is highest with large trees that have aggressive, expansive root systems, such as oaks or silver maples. These should be placed a minimum of 20 to 50 feet away from the structure. Dense foliage touching the siding can impede air circulation, trapping moisture against building materials. This trapped moisture creates an environment conducive to mold, mildew, and wood-destroying insects like termites, making it important to maintain a gap between the plant and the house.
Proper grading is a structural requirement; the soil level should slope away from the house to ensure water drains outward. The backfill material should promote drainage, and wood-based mulch should be kept at least one foot away from the foundation to reduce pest risk. Selecting plants with fibrous, non-aggressive root systems, such as Boxwood or Hydrangea, helps mitigate these risks.
Plant Selection Based on Orientation
The orientation of the side of the house dictates the type of plants that will thrive, requiring specific selections for each light condition.
Full Sun Locations
Areas receiving six or more hours of direct sun, especially intense afternoon light on west-facing walls, require highly resilient, drought-tolerant plants. Dwarf conifers like the ‘Blue Star’ Juniper or compact Mugo Pine provide year-round structure and tolerate poor, dry soil once established. Flowering shrubs that perform well include sterile varieties of Spirea, such as ‘Double Play Doozie’, which bloom continuously, or Distylium, a highly adaptable broadleaf evergreen. For color, the mounding perennial Catmint (Nepeta) is tough, thriving in the reflected heat and drier soil often found near concrete.
Partial Sun/Shade Locations
Partial sun or dappled shade is the most common condition along a house and is ideal for many broadleaf evergreens and flowering shrubs. Boxwood varieties like ‘North Star’ or ‘Sprinter’ are staples for foundation plantings due to their dense, shallow root systems and ability to handle both sun and shade. Hydrangeas, especially the paniculata types like ‘Little Lime’, are excellent choices because they bloom reliably on new wood and maintain a manageable size. Rhododendrons and Azaleas, with their fibrous roots, also excel in these protected conditions, provided the soil is amended to be acidic and rich in organic matter.
Full Shade Locations
Deeply shaded areas, such as the north side of the house, require plants that tolerate low light and often dry soil due to the house blocking rain. Several options thrive in these conditions:
- Hosta is a forgiving perennial that comes in a wide range of sizes and leaf colors, providing lush texture in dark corners.
- Ferns, such as the Autumn Brilliance Fern, offer fine texture and evergreen or semi-evergreen interest.
- For groundcover, Bugleweed (Ajuga) spreads reliably.
- Low-growing, compact shrubs like Dwarf Sweet Box (Sarcococca hookeriana) provide winter fragrance and structure.
Layering and Visual Design
Once appropriate plants are selected based on the microclimate, careful arrangement creates a cohesive and visually appealing display. An effective technique is to utilize a three-layered approach, placing plants in tiers according to their mature height. The tallest shrubs and evergreens form the background layer closest to the house, anchoring the structure and softening its corners.
The middle layer consists of medium-height plants, such as flowering shrubs or larger perennials, which provide primary color and seasonal interest. The outermost layer, furthest from the house, should feature the shortest plants, including groundcovers or small perennials that define the edge of the planting bed. This layering creates necessary visual depth and prevents planting everything in a single, monotonous line.
It is paramount to space all plants according to their predicted mature width, not their current size. Planting too closely results in overcrowding, which restricts air circulation and promotes disease. Using the mature size as the guide means the bed will look sparse initially but will fill in naturally over several seasons to create a low-maintenance, harmonious landscape.