Gardening in Texas is complex because the state’s massive size encompasses a vast range of climates and ecological zones. The question of “what to plant now” requires a gardener to consider their specific location and the current season. Successful cultivation depends entirely on accurately timing seed-starting and transplanting to align with the highly variable last and first frost dates across the state.
Addressing Regional Climate Differences
Texas spans USDA hardiness zones 6 to 10, meaning the growing season can vary from approximately 200 days in the Panhandle to nearly year-round along the Gulf Coast. The most significant factor determining a planting schedule is the window between the last frost of spring and the first frost of fall. In the cooler northern regions, such as the Panhandle, the last frost may occur in late March, with the first frost arriving in November.
Moving south and toward the Gulf Coast, the planting window widens considerably due to milder temperatures. For instance, in Central Texas, the last frost date often falls in late February, while the first frost is delayed until late November. Gardeners must consult specific local data to pinpoint these dates, as a difference of a few weeks can determine if a crop successfully matures before the summer heat or winter chill arrives.
Seasonal Planting for Warm-Season Crops
The Texas summer heat creates a long, productive season for heat-loving plants, making this the primary focus for many gardeners. Warm-season crops should be planted after the danger of the last spring frost has passed, usually from late February in the south to mid-April in the north. Vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, squash, and cucumbers thrive in the spring and early summer months.
Tomato and pepper transplants should be set out early to allow fruit set before the most intense heat of July and August. For continued production through the summer, gardeners should select heat-set tomato varieties, which can pollinate even when nighttime temperatures remain above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Other staples like okra, black-eyed peas (cowpeas), and eggplant are extremely heat-tolerant and can be planted from late spring through mid-summer. Okra is a prolific producer that will continue yielding pods until the first fall frost.
Beyond edibles, the Texas heat supports a vibrant array of flowers that tolerate the intense sun and warmth. Zinnias and lantana are excellent choices, offering continuous color throughout the long summer and attracting pollinators. Lantana, in particular, is drought-resistant and thrives in the high temperatures that cause many other flowers to wilt. Sunflowers are another spectacular, high-yield option, with varieties adapted to the state’s long, sunny days.
Seasonal Planting for Cool-Season Crops
Texas’s mild winters allow for a robust second growing season, focusing on crops that prefer cooler temperatures and can tolerate light frosts. The planting window typically opens in late summer, with seeds or transplants going into the ground from late August through October, ensuring they mature during the mild fall and winter months.
Cool-season crops include:
- Leafy greens (kale, spinach, collards, Swiss chard) are excellent choices for a winter harvest and often become sweeter after a light frost.
- Root vegetables (carrots, radishes, beets) should be direct-seeded in the fall, as they do not transplant well.
- Brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower) should be started from transplants in late summer to ensure they form heads before the coldest part of winter.
In the warmest zones, such as the Gulf Coast, planting can extend into December and January for hardy crops like garlic, onions, and leeks. The cooler soil temperatures minimize pest pressure and enhance the flavor of many winter vegetables. Gardeners in all regions should be prepared to use row covers to protect these crops during the occasional hard freeze.
Essential Texas Soil and Water Considerations
Texas soils often present challenges, frequently being heavy, sticky clay (“Texas gumbo”) or high in caliche. This dense clay impedes root growth and drainage, especially in areas with high alkalinity (pH 7.1 to 8.5). To mitigate the poor structure, consistent incorporation of organic matter, such as compost and aged manure, is necessary.
Adding organic material improves aeration and drainage by helping clay particles aggregate into a more workable structure. Gardeners in heavy clay areas may also benefit from adding inorganic amendments like expanded shale, which permanently improves soil structure and water retention. A crucial technique for adapting to the Texas environment is deep, infrequent watering.
This method encourages plants to develop deep, drought-tolerant root systems that withstand the intense summer heat and potential water restrictions. When watering, saturate the soil to a depth of four to six inches, typically in the early morning to minimize evaporation. A three to six-inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded leaves or wood chips, is effective for regulating soil temperature and retaining moisture during dry periods.