November is an active month for gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zone 7, defined by an average annual extreme minimum temperature range of 0°F to 10°F (-17.8°C to -12.2°C). This late-fall timing is opportune because air temperatures signal dormancy in plants, yet the soil retains enough residual warmth to promote root growth. This condition is called soil temperature lag, where the ground may remain above 40°F (4°C) well into the season. Planting now allows roots to establish themselves, giving them a significant advantage over spring-planted stock once the weather warms.
Planting Spring-Flowering Bulbs
Planting spring-flowering bulbs in November is a time-sensitive task that directly impacts the following season’s floral display. These subterranean structures require a specific duration of cold temperatures to undergo vernalization, or chilling. This cold period is necessary to break dormancy and trigger the biochemical changes required for proper flower development. Without sufficient chilling, many bulbs will produce stunted stems or fail to bloom altogether.
Bulbs like tulips and hyacinths have a higher chilling requirement and must be planted before the ground freezes solid. Daffodils and crocus are generally more forgiving. The ideal planting window in Zone 7 is when nighttime air temperatures consistently drop to between 40°F and 50°F. A good rule of thumb for planting depth is to bury the bulb two to three times its vertical height.
Proper soil preparation is important to ensure the bulb’s survival through the wet winter months. Bulbs are highly susceptible to rot, so planting them in well-draining soil is necessary. If the existing soil is heavy clay, amending the area with compost or grit will improve drainage and prevent standing water. Adding a slow-release bulb fertilizer at planting time provides the nutrients needed to support the extensive root growth that occurs over the winter.
Establishing Dormant Trees and Shrubs
November offers the best opportunity to establish trees, shrubs, and hardy fruit stock because they are entering their natural dormant period. Planting during dormancy reduces the stress of transplant shock, as the plant is not actively trying to support foliage or flowers. The cooler air minimizes water loss through transpiration, while the still-mild soil allows for the immediate development of a strong root system. This root establishment over the winter prepares the plant to handle the demands of spring growth and summer heat.
Bare-root plants, such as fruit trees and berry canes, are particularly suited for November planting. These plants are sold without soil around their roots, making them economical and easier to handle. Upon receiving bare-root stock, soak the roots in a bucket of water for about 30 minutes to rehydrate them before planting. When digging the planting hole, ensure it is wide enough to accommodate the spread of the roots without bending them.
Avoid planting too deeply, which can lead to the plant’s failure. The root flare, where the trunk widens at the base, must remain slightly above the surrounding soil level. After placing the plant, backfill the hole with soil, tamping gently, and watering thoroughly to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. This ensures the roots have immediate contact with the soil for successful establishment before the ground hardens with deeper winter cold.
Winter Edibles and Overwintering Crops
November in Zone 7 is the time for planting certain edibles that rely on the cold cycle for a successful summer harvest. Garlic requires a period of cold stratification, or chilling, to divide the original clove into a full, segmented bulb. Planting individual garlic cloves now, 2 to 4 inches deep with the pointed end facing up, ensures they receive the necessary cold exposure. Onion sets, which are tiny dormant bulbs, should also be planted this month about 1 inch deep to establish roots and begin their growth cycle early.
This transitional period allows for the cultivation of several cold-hardy leafy greens that thrive in declining temperatures. Spinach and kale are ideal for late-fall planting, as a light frost triggers a biochemical process that converts starches into sugars within the leaves. This conversion acts as a natural antifreeze and makes the greens taste noticeably sweeter. Planting these varieties now can provide small, continuous harvests throughout the milder Zone 7 winter, especially when protected by a simple row cover or cold frame.
For improving soil health, November is the proper time to sow cover crops in empty garden beds. Species like winter rye or crimson clover are excellent choices because they germinate quickly and prevent soil erosion during winter rain and wind. Their root systems break up compaction and scavenge nutrients that might otherwise leach away. This enriches the soil for the following spring’s main planting season.