February is a dynamic month in Southern California gardens, marking the transition between mild winter and impending spring heat. Gardeners in Mediterranean-like Sunset Zones 18 through 24 experience a final flourish of cool-season growth while preparing for the summer bounty. This brief window allows for a final push on late-winter crops and the crucial indoor start of heat-loving vegetables. The stable, moderate temperatures also create optimal conditions for establishing perennials and bare-root stock before the aggressive summer sun arrives.
Edibles to Plant or Start Indoors Now
Direct sowing seeds or transplanting seedlings now ensures a continuous harvest before warmer weather causes cool-season crops to “bolt,” or prematurely go to seed. Root vegetables like carrots, beets, and radishes are best sown directly into deeply worked, loose soil to prevent malformed roots. Peas, including shelling and snap varieties, should also be direct-sown now, requiring a trellis or support structure immediately after germination.
Leafy greens and brassicas benefit from the mild temperatures and can be planted from nursery starts or sown directly.
- Kale
- Swiss chard
- Collards
- Head lettuce
Broccoli and cauliflower transplants should be set out now, allowing them time to form heads before late spring heat encourages bitterness. February is also the final opportunity to plant perennial edibles, such as crowns of asparagus and rhubarb or bare-root artichoke starts.
The mild Southern California weather demands that warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant be started indoors during February to give them a sufficient head start. These plants require a long growing season and will not thrive if transplanted outdoors before night temperatures consistently stay above 50°F (usually April or May). Starting them from seed now requires a controlled environment to mimic summer conditions and ensure robust growth.
The successful indoor start of these summer crops relies on specialized equipment. Seedling heat mats maintain a soil temperature of 75°F to 85°F, encouraging rapid germination. Once seedlings emerge, they must immediately be placed under adjustable full-spectrum grow lights for 14 to 16 hours daily. This intense light prevents the seedlings from becoming “leggy,” a common problem when relying solely on windowsill light.
Flowers and Bare-Root Opportunities
February provides an excellent opportunity to introduce color into the landscape with cool-weather tolerant annuals and to establish permanent woody plants. For immediate spring color, gardeners can plant nursery-grown annuals directly into garden beds and containers.
- Pansies
- Violas
- Snapdragons
- Iceland poppies
These flowers thrive in mild temperatures and provide vibrant blooms until the heat arrives in late May or June.
California native flowers, such as the iconic California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), can be direct-sown now. They often require winter chilling to germinate and prefer to establish roots before the dry season. February marks the final weeks of the bare-root season, making this the last optimal time to plant dormant deciduous stock. Bare-root roses should be planted immediately upon purchase to allow roots to settle before they break dormancy.
Deciduous fruit trees requiring low chill hours, such as apples, pears, peaches, and plums, are ideally planted from bare-root stock in February. Planting them while dormant minimizes transplant shock. This allows the root system to develop in the moist, cool soil before the demands of spring leaf-out. Before planting, the bare roots should be soaked in water for several hours to rehydrate them.
Critical February Garden Preparation
Preparing the soil in February is the most impactful task for setting the stage for a productive spring and summer garden. Garden beds hosting warm-season vegetables should be amended now with a generous layer of aged compost and a slow-release granular organic fertilizer. This allows the organic matter to begin breaking down and integrating into the existing soil structure before planting begins.
Winter weeds, having benefited from seasonal rain, can quickly become unmanageable if ignored. It is important to pull these weeds now, especially after rain when the soil is soft, to prevent them from going to seed. Applying a pre-emergent herbicide can also be an effective strategy for preventing the germination of summer annual weeds.
Pruning manages plant health and encourages future growth. Dormant fruit trees and roses should receive their annual structural pruning now to remove dead or crossing branches. This shapes the plant for better air circulation and sunlight penetration. Frost-damaged foliage on tropical plants, such as bougainvillea or hibiscus, should not be pruned until after the danger of the last frost has passed.