Adding low-growing plants between pavers softens the rigid lines of hardscape and introduces texture and color to a pathway. Beyond aesthetics, planting the joints offers practical benefits. The plants discourage unwanted weeds by occupying the space and help reduce the heat reflected by the stone surface. This living grout creates a permeable surface that allows rainwater to seep into the ground, contributing to better site drainage.
Selecting Plants Based on Environment and Use
The success of a planted paver path depends on selecting species that can withstand the harsh, shallow, and often hot microclimate of the joints. A primary consideration is the amount of foot traffic the area receives, as plants must be durable enough to tolerate occasional crushing. Equally important is the light exposure, since some plants require full sun while others thrive in shade.
For paver paths exposed to full sun and high foot traffic, creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum) is a reliable option, forming a dense, fragrant mat that rarely exceeds three inches in height. Another excellent choice for a sunny, heavily used path is Green Carpet or Rupturewort (Herniaria glabra), a highly durable groundcover. These plants possess a low, spreading growth habit, which prevents them from becoming trip hazards or obscuring the pavers themselves.
In areas of full sun or partial shade with low to moderate foot traffic, mat-forming sedums, such as ‘Dragon’s Blood’ (Sedum spurium), or Blue Star Creeper (Isotoma fluviatilis) provide attractive alternatives. Sedums are succulents that offer exceptional drought tolerance once established, making them ideal for hot, exposed locations.
For shaded areas that receive minimal foot traffic, Irish Moss (Sagina subulata) or Scotch Moss (Sagina subulata ‘Aurea’) form a soft, moss-like carpet. Dwarf Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Kyoto Super Dwarf’) is another option for shade, offering a dark green, grass-like texture that handles light use.
Preparing the Paver Gaps for Planting
Before planting, the paver gaps must be prepared by removing existing material, such as old sand or weeds, to create a suitable planting bed. Plants need a minimum depth of soil to anchor their root systems and access nutrients. The joints should be excavated to a depth of at least two to four inches, clearing out compacted base material to make space for the growing medium. This depth ensures the roots have enough volume to grow without disturbing the paver base.
The material used to fill the joints must balance water retention with rapid drainage, as standing water will cause rot in most shallow-rooted groundcovers. A good substrate blend consists of roughly two parts coarse sand or grit, one part quality potting soil, and one part compost. The high percentage of sand and grit guarantees the sharp drainage necessary to prevent the roots from becoming waterlogged. The potting soil and compost introduce the minimal organic matter and nutrients required to sustain growth. This enriched, well-draining blend should be packed lightly into the excavated joints, leaving enough space for the plant’s root ball.
Installation and Long-Term Care
The installation process typically utilizes small nursery plugs or divisions cut from mature plants to ensure a head start on establishment. To create plugs, cut the groundcover mat into two-to-three-inch square sections, ensuring each contains a healthy root system. These small divisions are then gently placed into the prepared gaps, with the crown sitting level with or slightly below the paver surface.
After placement, the surrounding soil blend should be firmed gently around the base of the plant to eliminate air pockets and ensure good root-to-soil contact. The most important step post-installation is a deep, thorough initial watering to settle the soil and hydrate the roots. During the first two to four weeks, the plants require routine watering to keep the soil consistently moist, encouraging the roots to spread and establish themselves in the new environment.
Ongoing maintenance involves occasional trimming to prevent the plants from encroaching onto the paver surface, which can be done with small shears or a string trimmer. For perennial varieties like creeping thyme, a light shearing after the main flowering period encourages denser growth and prevents the stems from becoming woody. Weeding should be done manually as needed, focusing on removing competitive weed seedlings before they become established. If the groundcover becomes overly dense or begins to die out in the center after several years, dividing the plant and replanting the healthy outer sections can rejuvenate the area.