When a succulent grows tall and loses its characteristic compact form, it develops a weak, stretched appearance often called legginess. This abnormal growth results in sparse foliage and an elongated stem, making the plant top-heavy and unstable. This change in structure indicates the plant’s current environment is not meeting its biological needs. Addressing this issue involves physically correcting the existing form and adjusting the environment to prevent recurrence.
Understanding Why Succulents Get Tall
The primary reason succulents become tall and spindly is etiolation, the plant’s survival mechanism in low-light environments. When the plant senses insufficient light, it rapidly elongates its stem in an attempt to reach a brighter location. This stretching results from increased production of the plant hormone auxin, which promotes cell elongation within the stem’s internodes (the spaces between the leaves).
This accelerated growth increases the distance separating individual leaves along the stem. Instead of the compact, dense rosette structure characteristic of a healthy succulent, the plant develops a pale, weak stem that lacks structural integrity. For most rosette-forming succulents, etiolation serves as a clear diagnostic sign of light deprivation.
The Primary Solution: Beheading and Pruning
Correcting an etiolated succulent requires physically removing the healthy top section in a process known as “beheading.” This technique allows the plant to restart with a compact structure by permanently removing the damaged, stretched growth. Using a sterile, sharp tool, such as a razor blade or clean shears, sever the top rosette from the elongated stem, ensuring the cut is made in a healthy, compact section of growth below the stretched area.
The removed rosette is treated as a stem cutting and must be allowed to form a protective layer over the wound. This process, called callousing, involves letting the cutting air dry in a well-ventilated, shaded spot for three to seven days. Forming this protective scab prevents the entry of pathogens and minimizes water loss before the cutting establishes a new root system.
Once the cut end is completely dry and firm, the cutting is ready for replanting into a new container. The ideal medium is a highly porous, gritty mix, often combining standard potting soil with inorganic materials like perlite or pumice in roughly a 1:1 ratio to ensure rapid drainage. This prevents the cutting from sitting in moisture, which encourages rot rather than root development.
Insert the calloused end into the prepared soil mixture, and keep the container in bright, indirect light. Withhold water until the cutting has successfully developed new roots, which can take several weeks. Watering before root formation is established can cause the cutting to rot rather than encouraging root growth.
Maximizing Remaining Parts: Propagation
The material remaining after the beheading process is an opportunity to generate new plants. The original stem base, which remains potted, should be watered sparingly and placed in a bright location. This stem, sensing the loss of its main growing point, will often activate dormant auxiliary buds located along its length.
Within a few weeks, these dormant buds typically sprout multiple tiny new rosettes. Allow these new growths to develop until they are large enough to be safely removed and potted as individual plants.
The leaves stripped from the removed stem can also be used for propagation. For successful leaf propagation, an entire, healthy leaf must be carefully removed from the stem with a clean, intact base, usually by gently twisting it off. Leaves that break or tear at the base are unlikely to form new plants.
Lay these intact leaves directly on top of dry, well-draining soil in a bright area, but out of direct sun. Over a period ranging from several weeks to a few months, the leaf base will produce both tiny roots and a miniature plantlet, or “pup.” The original leaf will eventually shrivel and fall away once the new plant is established.
Preventing Future Stretching
The most effective way to prevent future etiolation is to significantly increase the intensity of the light source. Indoors, this often means moving the plant to a window that provides direct sun for at least six hours daily, such as a south-facing exposure in the Northern Hemisphere. If natural light is insufficient, supplement with a full-spectrum grow light placed within six to twelve inches of the plant canopy.
Even when light is sufficient, ensure that all sides of the plant receive equal illumination. Succulents naturally grow toward the strongest light source, so rotating the container by a quarter turn every week prevents uneven growth and leaning. This practice encourages symmetrical development of the rosette.
Adjusting the watering schedule can help maintain a compact growth habit. Succulents are naturally adapted to arid conditions; waiting until the lower leaves show subtle signs of wrinkling before watering encourages slower, more controlled growth. Overly frequent watering, combined with low light, promotes rapid, weak growth and increases the likelihood of stretching.