Succulents are plants naturally adapted to store water in their leaves, stems, and roots to survive in arid climates. This adaptation means their care routine must drastically change when the growing season ends. Cooler temperatures and reduced light typically trigger a period of rest, known as dormancy, where the plant’s metabolic rate slows significantly. Understanding this shift is essential for ensuring your collection survives and remains healthy through the colder months.
Managing Light and Temperature
The primary concern for non-cold-hardy succulents brought indoors for the winter is the dramatic reduction in light intensity and duration. Succulents require many hours of bright light daily, and a typical indoor windowsill will not provide the same energy as the summer sun. For those in the Northern Hemisphere, a south-facing window is the most advantageous placement, as it offers the longest and most direct exposure to natural daylight.
Cooler ambient temperatures can help manage the plant’s need for light by encouraging a controlled dormancy. Many popular species, such as Echeveria and Crassula, prefer a winter temperature range between 50°F and 60°F (10°C to 15°C) to facilitate this rest period. This cooler environment slows growth, helping to prevent the plant from stretching out as it desperately searches for light, a condition called etiolation. Etiolation results in pale, weak, and permanently elongated stems, damaging the plant’s compact form.
To maximize the limited natural light, keep windows clean and rotate the pots weekly to ensure all sides of the plant receive equal exposure. Avoid placing plants directly against the glass or near cold drafts, as this can expose them to extreme cold. If natural light is insufficient, full-spectrum LED grow lights, run on a timer for 10 to 14 hours per day, can supplement the weak winter sun. These lights should be positioned 4 to 12 inches above the tallest leaves to be most effective.
The Winter Watering Strategy
The onset of dormancy means the succulent’s internal systems operate at a much slower pace, drastically reducing water consumption. Continuing a summer watering schedule is the most common cause of winter death, as saturated soil becomes a breeding ground for fungal infections and root rot. The goal in winter is to support the plant’s resting state, not to encourage active growth.
The most reliable rule for winter watering is to wait until the soil is completely bone dry for several weeks before watering. For many dormant succulents, this means watering only once every four to eight weeks, or even less, depending on the home’s temperature and humidity. The reduced frequency ensures the plant is not sitting in prolonged moisture, which it cannot process quickly due to its low metabolic rate.
When watering, apply just enough to moisten the roots without fully saturating the soil, or water thoroughly and immediately empty the drainage saucer. If the winter temperature drops below 50°F (10°C), suspend watering almost entirely. Signs like slightly wrinkled or shriveled leaves may indicate thirst, prompting a small amount of water, but this must be differentiated from the soft, mushy leaves that signal rot.
Avoiding Common Winter Issues
While the focus shifts to less light and less water, two other maintenance areas require attention for a successful winter. Pests often become a problem indoors, as the dry air and stable temperatures of heated homes create an ideal environment for certain insects. Mealybugs and spider mites are common culprits, identified by cottony white masses or fine webbing on the plant’s crevices.
Regularly inspecting the plants, particularly in the leaf axils and undersides, allows for early detection of these pests. Prompt treatment with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol can effectively eliminate mealybugs on contact. Maintaining good airflow around the plants, possibly with a small fan, also helps reduce the humidity that can encourage both pests and fungal issues.
Another rule during dormancy is to avoid all fertilization. Since the plant is not actively growing, it cannot utilize added nutrients. Applying fertilizer to a dormant succulent can result in chemical burn, damaging the roots. Wait until temperatures rise and the plant shows clear signs of new growth in the spring before resuming a diluted feeding schedule.