The shift from summer harvesting to autumn preparation is an important period for strawberry plants. Successfully putting your patch to bed in the fall is the most effective way to ensure a large, healthy crop the following spring. Fall maintenance focuses on preparing the plant for dormancy and protecting the crown from winter stresses. This preparation allows the strawberry plant to build up the carbohydrate reserves it needs to initiate flower buds, directly impacting the quantity and quality of next year’s fruit.
Post-Harvest Renovation and Thinning
Immediately following the final summer harvest, typically in late summer or early fall, June-bearing strawberry varieties require renovation. The first step involves mowing or cutting back the old foliage to stimulate the growth of a fresh, younger canopy. Using a lawnmower or hedge shears, trim the leaves down to approximately one to two inches above the crown, taking care not to damage the plant’s growing point at the soil line.
This pruning removes older, often diseased or pest-ridden leaves, reducing the potential for pathogens to overwinter and infect new growth. Removing the old growth also encourages the plant to refocus its energy toward root and crown development. After cutting back the foliage, the patch should be thoroughly weeded, and all debris, including the clipped leaves and any remaining runners, should be removed from the bed.
Thinning the strawberry patch is necessary, especially for plants grown in the matted row system, to prevent overcrowding. Strawberry plants produce numerous runners that develop into new daughter plants, which can quickly lead to dense, unproductive growth. Use a tiller or hoe to narrow the rows to a width of about eight to twelve inches, focusing on removing older, less vigorous mother plants. Maintaining adequate spacing, ideally between six and nine inches between mature crowns, improves air circulation and ensures that each plant receives enough light and nutrients to develop robust crowns for the winter.
Adjusting Nutrition for Winter Preparation
The nutritional strategy in the fall shifts toward storing energy for the next growing season rather than promoting tender, vegetative growth. After renovation, the plants need a final application of fertilizer to support the development of flower buds, which occurs in the fall as day length shortens and temperatures cool. This fall feeding is when the strawberry plant absorbs and converts nutrients into proteins and amino acids, storing them in the crown and roots.
It is recommended to apply a balanced fertilizer, such as a 12-12-12 formulation, or one that is relatively low in nitrogen. While nitrogen is needed to encourage new leaf growth after renovation, excessive amounts can lead to soft, vulnerable growth that is easily damaged by early frost. A split application of nitrogen is often most effective for the shallow-rooted plants, ensuring a consistent supply without the risk of leaching.
Proper hydration remains important until the soil freezes. Although the plants are slowing down, they still require about one inch of water per week, especially after the renovation and fertilization steps, to allow the roots to take up the applied nutrients. As temperatures consistently drop, watering frequency should be reduced, but the plants must enter dormancy adequately hydrated to survive the dry winter months.
Applying Winter Protection (Mulching)
The final step in fall care is applying protective mulch to shield the strawberry crowns from winter damage. The primary purpose of mulching is to prevent the effects of freeze-thaw cycles, not just to insulate against extreme cold. Repeated freezing and thawing of the soil can cause the plants to be physically lifted, or heaved, out of the ground, damaging the crown and roots.
The timing of mulch application is crucial; applying it too early can cause the plants to rot or delay their cold-hardening process. Wait until the plants have gone fully dormant, which typically occurs after several hard frosts or when the ground has frozen to a depth of one to two inches. Apply the mulch when air temperatures consistently drop below 20°F.
A loose, non-compacting material is best, with clean, weed-free straw being the most recommended option due to its insulating properties. Pine needles or shredded leaves can also be used, but avoid heavy materials that mat down, as these can smother the plants. Spread the material loosely and evenly over the patch to a depth of three to five inches, ensuring the crowns are completely covered. This protective layer should remain in place throughout the winter and only be partially removed or pulled back in early spring when the plants begin to show signs of new growth.