The Queen of the Night, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, is a captivating plant known for its large, fragrant white flowers that bloom exclusively at night. These ephemeral blossoms last only a few hours, typically wilting by dawn. A common characteristic of this unique plant is its development of long, sprawling shoots, which are a natural part of its growth habit.
Understanding Queen of the Night’s Growth Habit
The Queen of the Night is an epiphytic cactus, meaning it naturally grows on other plants or trees for support in its native Central and South American rainforest habitats. Its long, flattened, leaf-like stems (cladodes) function in photosynthesis. In their natural environment, these stems extend and cling to structures, allowing the plant to vine and climb through the tree canopy.
When grown indoors, this vining habit results in long, often leggy growth. Insufficient light can encourage elongated growth as the plant stretches for light. These long shoots are a normal part of the plant’s development.
Managing Long Shoots
Managing Queen of the Night’s long shoots involves pruning and providing structural support to maintain plant health and shape. Pruning controls size, encourages bushier growth, and removes damaged or unwanted sections. The ideal time to prune is after blooming or in early spring before new growth begins.
Use clean, sharp pruning shears, making precise cuts just above a node or joint. These are small bumps on the stem from which new growth emerges. Over-pruning can stress the plant, so prune sparingly, focusing on selective removal.
Providing support accommodates the plant’s vining nature and improves its aesthetic appeal. Stakes, trellises, or hanging baskets can manage sprawling shoots. Training shoots along a support structure creates a more organized display. A terracotta pot can also help weigh down the plant, preventing tipping.
Propagating Long Shoots
Long shoots can propagate new plants, a straightforward process. The best time to take cuttings is late spring or early summer, after blooming. Select a healthy, mature stem segment, 4-6 inches long, ensuring it contains several areoles (small bumps where new growth initiates).
After cutting, allow the segment to dry in a cool, shaded place for 1-2 weeks until a callus forms. This prevents rot. Once callused, root the cutting directly in well-draining soil (such as cactus or succulent mix) or in water.
For soil propagation, insert the callused end 2-3 inches deep into the potting mix, ensuring stability. Water lightly, then allow the soil to dry completely before re-watering. For water propagation, roots develop quickly; transfer to soil once a substantial root system forms. Place cuttings in bright, indirect light.
Encouraging Blooms on Long Shoots
The iconic nocturnal blooms emerge from mature shoots, typically when the plant is 3-5 years old. Optimal light exposure is a significant factor in encouraging flowering; bright, indirect light is preferred, as direct sunlight can burn stems. An east or west-facing window provides suitable conditions.
Allow the top few inches of soil to dry between waterings during the active growing season (spring and summer), avoiding overwatering and root rot. During blooming, regular fertilization helps. Apply a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer, or a balanced water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength, monthly during spring and summer to support flower production.
A winter dormancy period stimulates flowering. Reduce watering significantly, allowing soil to dry more between waterings, and expose the plant to cooler temperatures (50-60°F/10-15°C). During this cooler period (November-March), avoid fertilizing. Once flower buds form, resume regular watering.