The majestic blooms of a potted lily eventually fade, signaling a shift from a decorative display to a period of preparation for the next season. This post-flowering phase requires proper care to ensure the bulb stores enough energy to rebloom beautifully next year. Focusing on resource conservation and a transition into dormancy is necessary for the bulb’s long-term health and the success of the next growing cycle.
Post-Flowering Pruning: Dealing with Spent Blooms
As the petals drop and the flowers wilt, the immediate step is to remove the spent blooms, a process known as deadheading. This action prevents the plant from using valuable energy on seed production. If allowed to develop, the resulting seed pods would divert nutrients away from the lily’s underground storage structure.
To deadhead correctly, use clean pruning shears to snip off the faded flower head just below the bloom itself. Make the cut directly above the first set of healthy leaves or the next developing bud on the stem. This technique removes the reproductive part of the plant without unnecessarily cutting into the main stem or green foliage. The goal is to signal to the lily that its flowering mission is complete, allowing it to redirect its focus toward recharging the bulb.
The Importance of Foliage
The green leaves and stem remaining after the flowers are removed are the lily’s power source for the entire following year. This foliage continues the process of photosynthesis, converting sunlight into sugars and starches. These carbohydrates are then transported down the stem and stored within the bulb, which acts as the plant’s food reserve for the dormant period and spring growth.
Removing the green foliage prematurely would severely limit the amount of energy the bulb can store, leading to a weak bulb that may not produce a flower the next season. Therefore, the green stem and leaves must remain intact until they naturally yellow and wither, which typically takes six to eight weeks after the bloom has finished. During this recharge period, continue to water the potted lily to keep the soil consistently moist, but avoid waterlogging the container.
A light application of a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer can assist this energy-storing process, though it should be discontinued at least a month before the first expected frost. The gradual yellowing of the leaves is a visual cue that the bulb has successfully completed its energy transfer and is ready to transition into dormancy. Only once the foliage has turned completely brown and is easily pulled away should it be cut back.
Preparing and Storing Bulbs for Winter
Once the foliage has fully died back and dried, the lily is ready for its winter rest. Cut the remaining brown stem down to within an inch or two of the soil level. The potted lily should no longer receive any water.
A lily bulb requires a period of cold temperatures, known as vernalization, to initiate the development of next year’s flower buds. Potted lilies are more susceptible to freeze damage than those in the ground because the pot’s walls expose the roots to cold air. The entire container should be moved to a sheltered, unheated location, such as a cool garage, shed, or basement.
The ideal overwintering environment remains cool, dark, and dry, with temperatures consistently between 35°F and 45°F (2°C and 7°C). This range provides the necessary cold period without risking a hard freeze. Alternatively, the bulbs can be lifted, cleaned, and stored in a breathable medium. The goal is to maintain a cold, dry state until the spring growing cycle begins.