Forcing hyacinths indoors allows them to bloom outside their natural spring schedule, providing color and fragrance during winter. This accelerated cycle significantly depletes the bulb’s stored energy reserves, making proper post-flowering care necessary for survival and potential rebloom. The goal is to transition the bulb to a resting period so it can be planted outdoors and recover its strength. Managing the bulb after the flowers fade involves careful attention to the remaining foliage.
Post-Flowering Care and Foliage Management
Once the flowers have wilted and faded, remove the spent flower stalk (scape) by cutting it down to the base of the plant. This deadheading prevents the plant from diverting energy into seed production, which further weakens the bulb. The green leaves must remain intact, as they are tasked with replenishing the bulb’s energy supply.
The leaves photosynthesize sunlight to create and store carbohydrates in the bulb, a process crucial after indoor forcing. To maximize energy storage, move the potted bulb to a location that receives bright, direct sunlight, such as a sunny windowsill. Consistent moisture is important; keep the soil lightly moist, but never saturated, to prevent the bulb from rotting.
To aid energy replenishment, apply a light application of balanced liquid fertilizer while the foliage remains green. This provides nutrients for the leaves to efficiently manufacture and transfer energy back into the bulb. Continue this active care until the leaves naturally begin to yellow and wither, typically six to eight weeks after the flowers have died back.
Inducing Dormancy and Curing the Bulb
Yellowing foliage signals the end of the energy-replenishment phase and the initiation of dormancy. At this point, cease the active care routine and begin drying out the bulb. Gradually reduce the frequency of watering, eventually stopping completely, allowing the soil to dry out fully.
Allow the leaves to completely turn brown and shrivel naturally; prematurely cutting them off will starve the bulb of stored energy. Once the foliage is entirely dry and brittle, remove it from the bulb. If the hyacinth was grown in soil, gently ease the bulb out of the container, brushing off any loose soil.
The next step is curing, which hardens the bulb’s outer skin and prepares it for long-term storage. Lay the cleaned bulbs in a single layer in a warm, dry location with good air circulation, such as a garage or attic. A temperature between 70°F and 80°F is ideal for this process, which should last two to three weeks. The cured bulb’s firm, dry exterior acts as a barrier against disease and moisture during dormancy.
Storing and Replanting Outdoors
After the bulb has been properly cured and its outer layers have hardened, prepare it for storage until autumn planting. Forced bulbs rarely re-force well indoors and are best suited for re-establishing themselves in a garden setting. Before storage, inspect the bulb for signs of mold, soft spots, or damage, discarding any that appear unhealthy.
Store the dormant bulbs in a cool, dark, and dry environment to prevent premature sprouting or rot. Temperatures ranging from 50°F to 65°F are suitable for summer storage. Place the bulbs in a breathable container, such as a mesh bag or a paper sack, ensuring air circulates, and keep them away from ripening fruit which releases damaging ethylene gas.
The ideal time to plant the recovered hyacinth bulbs outdoors is in the fall, approximately six to eight weeks before the first hard frost. Plant the bulb in well-drained soil at a depth two to three times its height (typically about six inches deep), in a location that receives full sun or partial shade. The bulb will focus on root development through the winter and may produce foliage the following spring. It often requires a full year or two in the ground to recover its energy before reliably blooming again.