Freesias, known for their vibrant colors and sweet fragrance, are popular garden and floral choices. These elegant plants grow from corms, often mistaken for bulbs. Their continued beauty depends on proper post-flowering care, ensuring a rewarding display year after year.
Immediate Post-Flowering Care
After freesia flowers have faded, remove the spent flower stalks. This process, known as deadheading, prevents the plant from expending energy on seed production, redirecting resources to strengthen the underground corm for future blooms.
Allowing the foliage to remain on the plant is an important step. The green leaves perform photosynthesis, converting sunlight into energy that is then stored within the corm, replenishing nutrient reserves for the next growing cycle. The foliage should be left undisturbed until it naturally yellows and withers, typically taking several weeks to a couple of months after blooming. During this period, continue providing light watering to keep the soil consistently moist, but avoid waterlogging. A diluted, low-nitrogen or high-potassium fertilizer can also be applied every few weeks until the foliage begins to die back, further supporting corm development.
Preparing Freesia Bulbs for Storage
When freesia foliage has completely yellowed and turned brown, usually in late summer or early fall, it is best to dig up the corms for storage, especially in cold winter regions. Carefully lift the corms from the soil using a garden fork or spade, digging a wide circle around the plant to avoid damage.
Once lifted, gently remove excess soil clinging to the corms. Detach the old, shriveled mother corm, which has expended its energy, from the new, plump corms that have formed on top. Small cormlets, or daughter corms, can be separated from the main corm; these can be grown to produce new plants, though they may take a few years to reach flowering size. After cleaning, the corms require a period of curing or drying. Spread them in a single layer on newspaper or a mesh screen in a warm, well-ventilated, shaded area for several weeks, ideally at temperatures between 77°F to 86°F (25°C to 30°C). This curing process is important to prevent rot and disease during storage by hardening the corm’s outer layers.
Storing Freesia Bulbs
Proper storage ensures corms remain viable through dormancy. After curing, store corms in a cool, dry, dark environment. An ideal temperature range for long-term storage is around 55°F (12°C). Avoid temperature fluctuations to maintain dormancy.
Good air circulation is important to prevent mold and fungal growth. Suitable storage mediums include mesh bags, paper bags, or loosely layering the corms in dry peat moss, sand, or vermiculite. These materials help absorb any residual moisture and protect the corms. Periodically inspect the stored corms throughout the dormant season, typically once a month, to check for signs of disease, mold, or pest damage, removing any affected corms to prevent spread.
Replanting for Future Blooms
Replanting time depends on your climate. In warmer regions, USDA Hardiness Zones 9-10, corms can be planted in the fall for blooms in late winter or early spring. In colder areas (Zones 3-8), it is best to replant in spring after the last frost.
Before planting, prepare the site with well-draining soil, as freesias rot in waterlogged conditions. Amending soil with organic matter improves drainage and fertility. Plant corms pointed end up, typically 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) deep and 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm) apart. After planting, water lightly to settle the soil around the corms.
Leaving Freesia Bulbs in the Ground
Leaving freesia corms in the ground year-round is an option in specific climates. This practice suits gardens in USDA Hardiness Zones 9-10 and warmer, where the ground does not freeze deeply. In these milder zones, freesias can behave as tender perennials, returning annually.
For corms to overwinter successfully, excellent soil drainage is important. Saturated soil leads to corm rot, even in warmer temperatures. While convenient, continuously leaving corms in the ground can sometimes lead to overcrowding over several seasons, potentially reducing flowering vigor. This can also increase susceptibility to pests or diseases if conditions are not ideal.