The Amaryllis, botanically known as Hippeastrum, is a popular bulb prized for its large, trumpet-shaped flowers that typically bloom during the winter months. Many assume this spectacular plant is a single-season feature, but it is capable of reblooming annually for many years with proper post-flower care. The secret to repeated success lies in guiding the bulb through its full life cycle, which includes a period of active growth and a necessary cooling rest. Understanding and implementing the correct steps after the flower fades is the difference between a one-time display and a lasting tradition.
Immediate Post-Bloom Pruning
Once the flowers have wilted and faded, cut off the spent blossoms immediately to prevent the plant from wasting energy. Use clean, sharp shears to clip the individual flowers from the top of the stalk, halting potential seed pod formation. The thick, hollow flower stalk (scape) should remain attached until it begins to yellow and soften naturally. This allows residual nutrients to be reabsorbed by the bulb before you cut the stem back to about an inch above the neck.
Summer Growth and Energy Storage
The period between late winter and early fall is the bulb’s energy-building phase, where the goal is to maximize leaf growth. The long, strap-like leaves perform photosynthesis to store starches and sugars in the bulb for the next bloom cycle. Place the potted plant in a bright, sunny location indoors, or move it outside once the danger of frost has passed.
If moved outdoors, position the plant in an area that receives bright, indirect light or morning sun. Gradually acclimate the plant to prevent leaf scorch. Consistent moisture is necessary during this active growth period, so water thoroughly when the top inch or two of the soil feels dry.
Fertilization is important, as the bulb needs external nutrients to fuel its growth. Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, every two to four weeks. Continue feeding and watering throughout the spring and summer, encouraging vigorous leaf growth. This sustained care directly determines the size and number of flowers the bulb will produce the following season.
Inducing Dormancy
The bulb must enter a period of rest, or dormancy, to reset its internal clock and initiate new flower buds. This process typically begins in early fall (September or October) by gradually withholding water and fertilizer. The cessation of care signals the plant to slow its metabolic processes.
As the plant’s energy reserves are drawn back into the bulb, the leaves will naturally begin to yellow and turn brown. This discoloration confirms the energy transfer has occurred successfully. Once the foliage is completely dry, use clean shears to trim the dead leaves back to one or two inches above the neck of the bulb. The potted bulb should then be kept dry and moved to a protected location for storage.
Storing the Bulb and Forcing a Rebloom
The dormant bulb requires a cool, dark rest period for flower development. Store the potted bulb in a location consistently between 50 and 60°F (10 to 15°C), such as a cool basement or unheated closet. The area must be kept completely dry and dark, with no light or water applied.
This cooling period must last a minimum of eight to twelve weeks to ensure the flower buds are set. After the rest period, initiate the rebloom cycle by bringing the bulb out of storage. The plant generally takes six to eight weeks from awakening until the flowers appear.
To force the rebloom, move the bulb into a warm room (65–75°F) and place it in a bright, sunny window. Repot the bulb in a container only slightly wider than the bulb itself, leaving the top one-third exposed. Begin watering sparingly, increasing the amount only once new green growth becomes visible.