The Sago Palm, Cycas revoluta, is a popular landscape and container plant. Although often called a palm, this slow-growing evergreen is actually a cycad, an ancient group of cone-bearing plants. While its growth rate is generally measured in inches per year, this modest increase over time can result in a specimen that outgrows its location or container. When a sago palm becomes too large, homeowners must employ strategic techniques to reduce its immediate size or manage its future growth.
Understanding the Sago Palm’s Growth Habit
Sago palms are known for their extremely slow growth, sometimes taking 50 years or more to reach their full mature height, which can range from 3 to 10 feet tall and wide. The plant’s overall size is determined by two main factors. The length and spread of its stiff, glossy green fronds, which can be 3 to 7 feet long on mature plants, form a broad rosette.
The production of offsets, commonly called “pups,” also increases the plant’s footprint. These pups sprout from the base of the main trunk, creating a dense clump that significantly increases the plant’s horizontal spread. While the size of the caudex (trunk) grows slowly, the fronds and pups are the parts that quickly make the plant unmanageable in a confined area.
Pruning and Trimming Techniques
Canopy Reduction
When reducing the canopy, only remove fronds that are completely yellow, brown, or dead. Cut them as close to the trunk as possible using sharp, sterilized shears. Avoid cutting healthy green fronds, as this can weaken the plant and make it more susceptible to pests and disease. Some gardeners remove healthy lower fronds for an ornamental, pineapple-like trunk appearance. To maintain the plant’s shape, leave the upward-pointing fronds untouched.
Removing Pups (Offsets)
The primary method for reducing horizontal spread is removing the pups, or offsets, from the base of the trunk. These pups can be gently pried or sliced off the mother plant using a sharp, clean trowel or knife, ideally in the early spring or late fall. Wear gloves and long sleeves when handling the plant, as all parts of the sago palm are toxic, and the fronds are stiff and needle-tipped. Once removed, pups can be discarded, or they can be dried for a week and replanted to propagate new specimens.
Moving a Mature Sago Palm
If the sago palm is too large for its location even after pruning, it can be transplanted. This task is best performed during its semi-dormant period in late winter or early spring. Water the plant deeply 24 to 48 hours before the move to hydrate the tissues and settle the soil. The process requires digging a wide trench around the base to preserve a sufficient root ball, which is then carefully worked underneath to lift the plant.
The sago palm is resilient and can survive root disturbance, provided the trunk is handled with care and not planted too deeply. The new planting hole must be no deeper than the original growing depth but two to three times as wide to allow for new root spread. To reduce water loss and stress, professionals recommend removing most fronds before transplanting, leaving only the newest top ring. After replanting, keep the soil consistently moist for the first six months to promote re-establishment.
Long-Term Size Management
Container Restriction
For container-grown specimens, choosing a pot only slightly larger than the root ball will naturally restrict the plant’s growth. Sago palms thrive when they are somewhat root-bound, which slows the rate at which they produce new fronds and pups.
Fertilization Control
Fertilization directly influences growth speed. Applying a slow-release fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen limits the resources available for producing large flushes of foliage. While sago palms require certain nutrients like manganese, reducing overall feeding frequency, especially during the peak growing season, helps keep the plant at a manageable size.