The appearance of a spent flower often suggests the end of a plant’s life cycle, leading many to believe the tulip is dead and ready for removal. This post-bloom phase, however, is a necessary transition into summer dormancy. The period immediately following the fading of the petals is the most important time for the underground bulb. The objective during this phase is to ensure the bulb stores enough energy to survive the summer and produce a robust bloom the following spring. Successful care now directly impacts the color and size of next year’s display.
Immediate Steps After Blooming Stops
Once the petals drop and the flower has faded, the first step is to remove the spent flower head, a process known as deadheading. This prevents the plant from diverting energy into seed production. If left intact, the tulip stem will develop a seed pod, signaling the plant to invest resources into reproduction rather than bulb maintenance.
To deadhead correctly, snap or cut the flower stem just below the spent bloom, leaving the maximum amount of stem and all the leaves attached. This removal of the ovary—the potential seed source—redirects the plant’s energy. This ensures the foliage remains dedicated to recharging the subterranean bulb.
The Importance of Waiting for Foliage to Yellow
The remaining green leaves are the most valuable part of the plant after flowering, acting as solar panels for the bulb. Through photosynthesis, the foliage converts sunlight into sugars, which are then transported down the stem and stored as carbohydrates within the bulb tissue. This energy reserve is required to fuel the production of next year’s flower bud during the dormant period.
Cutting the leaves while they are still green short-circuits this nutrient transfer, starving the bulb of the energy it needs to form a healthy flower. The foliage must be allowed to yellow and wither naturally, a process that typically takes four to six weeks following the bloom. When the leaves turn yellow, it indicates that the chlorophyll has broken down and the energy transfer is complete.
Gardeners often find this transitional period unsightly, but it is necessary for perennial bloomers. To manage the appearance of the dying foliage, consider interplanting the tulip beds with fast-growing annuals like petunias or impatiens. These new plants will quickly hide the yellowing leaves without disturbing the bulb’s root system. The leaves are ready for removal only when they are completely brown and dry, and they come away easily with a gentle tug.
Lifting, Storing, or Leaving Bulbs In Ground
After the foliage has completely died back and dried up, the decision must be made whether to leave the bulbs in the ground or lift them for summer storage. In colder climates, where the ground freezes deeply, many Darwin hybrid and species tulips can be left in the ground to naturalize. If left in the ground, ensure the soil remains relatively dry during the summer dormancy to prevent rot.
Lifting the bulbs is recommended if your perennial tulips have become overcrowded, show a decline in bloom size, or if you live in a warm climate with mild winters. Use a garden fork to carefully loosen the soil and lift the bulbs once the foliage is fully dry. Gently brush off the soil and discard any bulbs that appear soft, diseased, or damaged.
The lifted bulbs must then be cured by drying them in a single layer in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated area for several days. Once cured, store the dry bulbs in a breathable container, such as a mesh bag, paper bag, or a tray with peat moss or sand. The storage location should maintain a cool temperature, between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, until they are replanted in the fall.
Handling Tulips Grown in Containers
Tulips grown in pots, especially those purchased already blooming, have often been forced to flower outside of their natural cycle. This process, coupled with restricted root space, depletes the bulb’s energy reserves, making reblooming unlikely. For most common hybrid varieties grown in containers, the practical approach is to discard the bulbs after the foliage has fully died back.
If you attempt to save them, the process is more rigorous than for in-ground bulbs. After the leaves yellow, stop watering the container completely and let the soil dry out thoroughly. Move the entire pot to a dry, cool location, like a garage or shed, to mimic a natural dormant state. These bulbs require a more intense chilling period than garden bulbs, needing 12 to 14 weeks below 45 degrees Fahrenheit to simulate winter before they are replanted.