When an orchid stops blooming, many owners mistakenly believe the plant has finished its cycle permanently. Most orchids are perennial plants intended to re-bloom year after year. This signals a transition point where the grower must shift focus from maintaining the flowers to actively encouraging the plant’s vegetative growth. Success in re-blooming depends on specific steps that provide the necessary energy and environmental cues for the next flower spike.
Immediate Post-Bloom Care: Pruning the Flower Spike
The first action after the blooms fade is managing the spent flower spike, and the correct approach depends on the orchid’s genus. For the popular Phalaenopsis, or Moth Orchid, the spike may remain green, indicating potential for a secondary re-bloom. If the spike is still green, cut it about one inch above the second node, which is the small, triangular bump found along the stem. A new, smaller flower stalk may emerge from this node within a few months, though subsequent blooms are often less abundant than the original display.
If the Phalaenopsis spike has turned entirely yellow or brown, or if the grower prefers a stronger bloom, the entire spike should be cut as close as possible to the base of the plant. Orchids like Cymbidium and Cattleya generally do not re-bloom from old spikes, so their stalks should always be removed entirely at the base. Use a sharp cutting tool, such as a razor blade or sterilized pruning shears, to prevent crushing the tissue and avoid introducing pathogens. Applying a pinch of cinnamon powder to the cut end can help seal the wound and act as a natural fungicide.
Essential Maintenance During the Resting Phase
Once the old spike is removed, the orchid enters a period of vegetative growth, which is when it builds up the energy reserves for future flowering. During this phase, proper hydration is maintained by allowing the growing medium to dry slightly before watering again. Most orchids benefit from a thorough soaking method, where the entire pot is placed in water for about 10 to 15 minutes, allowing the roots and media to fully absorb moisture before draining completely. It is crucial to ensure the plant never sits in standing water, as this is the primary cause of root rot.
Nutrition
This period requires a shift in the plant’s nutritional support to promote new leaf and root development. Growers often switch to a fertilizer blend that is higher in nitrogen, such as a 30-10-10 ratio, to encourage foliage growth. A common and effective method is to apply the fertilizer “weekly, weakly,” meaning a highly diluted solution, often one-quarter to one-half the recommended strength, is applied with every watering. This steady supply of nutrients mimics the way epiphytes absorb nutrients in their natural habitat.
Light and Humidity
The plant should be placed in an area that provides bright, indirect light to fuel photosynthesis for this growth phase. A window with an eastern exposure or a shaded southern or western window is ideal, as insufficient light will prevent the plant from storing the necessary energy to re-bloom. Maintaining ambient humidity levels between 55% and 75% also supports healthy leaf and root tips, as tropical orchids are adapted to moist air. This routine care must be sustained until the plant has sufficient energy to be encouraged into the next bloom cycle.
Environmental Triggers for Re-Flowering
To initiate a new flower spike, the orchid must receive an environmental signal that mimics the seasonal shift it would experience in nature. The most powerful trigger for the common Phalaenopsis orchid is a consistent, temporary drop in nighttime temperature. This signals the plant to stop vegetative growth and redirect its stored energy toward reproduction.
To apply this trigger, the plant should be moved to a location where it can experience a temperature differential of 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit between day and night. Nighttime temperatures should consistently fall into the range of 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit for a period of three to four weeks. This chilling period conserves the energy reserves needed to form a flower spike. A secondary trigger is an increase in light intensity or duration, which further boosts the plant’s energy production. Once the temperature differential is applied, a new spike typically emerges within two to four months.