Coyotes are increasingly common in suburban and urban environments as they seek out new territories. They are naturally wary of humans, but this fear diminishes when they find reliable resources near homes. Effective deterrence involves a consistent, multi-pronged approach that changes their perception of your property from a foraging ground to an unwelcome, resource-poor area. Implementing passive structural changes and active responsive measures encourages coyotes to move on and remain wary of human proximity.
Eliminating Food and Water Sources
Coyotes are drawn to residential areas by easily accessible food and water. The foundational step in deterrence is removing these incentives, forcing the animals to search elsewhere for sustenance. This preventative measure addresses the root cause of the animal’s presence.
All pet food should be brought inside immediately after mealtimes and never left out overnight. Garbage management requires diligence, necessitating the use of heavy-duty bins with securely locking lids to prevent tipping and access. Rags soaked in strong scents like ammonia or vinegar can be placed near the bins to discourage scavenging attempts.
Gardens and yards often contain other unintentional attractants that must be addressed. Fallen fruit from trees should be raked up promptly, and bird feeders should minimize seed spillage onto the ground. Seed spillage attracts rodents, which indirectly draws coyotes to the area. Standing water sources, such as leaky faucets or open containers, provide hydration during dry seasons and should be eliminated or covered.
Securing Property with Physical Barriers
Structural modifications create a passive block that prevents coyotes from accessing an area. Standard residential fencing is often insufficient, as coyotes can jump high and are determined diggers. For a fence to be coyote-proof, it should be at least six feet tall, as a motivated coyote can clear shorter barriers.
The most common point of failure is below the fence line, which coyotes will test repeatedly by digging. This vulnerability is countered by installing an L-footer, which is a section of wire mesh extending horizontally outward from the base of the fence. This mesh should be buried at least 12 to 18 inches deep and bent at a 90-degree angle, forming an outward apron that prevents an animal from digging directly under the barrier. To prevent climbing, roller bars can be installed along the top edge. All openings under decks, sheds, and porches must be blocked with fencing or concrete to remove potential den sites.
Immediate and Sensory Deterrents
Active, responsive deterrence, often called hazing, is necessary when a coyote is seen on the property to reinforce their natural fear of humans. The goal of hazing is to make the coyote uncomfortable and feel unwelcome, associating human presence with an immediate negative experience. When a coyote is sighted, homeowners should stand tall, make themselves look large, and use loud, varied noises.
Specific hazing techniques include:
- Yelling
- Using air horns
- Shaking a can filled with coins or pebbles
- Banging pots and pans together
It is helpful to throw objects like small rocks, sticks, or tennis balls near the coyote to startle it, but never at the animal. Consistency is paramount; if a coyote runs a short distance and stops, hazing must continue until the animal completely leaves the area to ensure the lesson is learned.
Automated sensory tools can complement active hazing by making the environment feel unsafe when humans are not present. Motion-activated sprinklers are effective because the sudden, unexpected spray of water startles the coyote without causing harm. These devices typically sense movement up to 30 feet away and cover a 120-degree range, delivering a short burst of water that teaches the animal to avoid the area. Similarly, motion-activated lights, particularly bright or strobing lights, can deter coyotes that are visually oriented and prefer to operate under cover of darkness. While commercial scent deterrents utilizing odors like wolf urine, vinegar, or ammonia exist, they are generally less reliable than physical barriers or hazing and require frequent reapplication due to weather exposure.