The common houseplant known as cyclamen, specifically the florist’s cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), is a perennial that naturally enters a period of dormancy. This necessary resting phase typically begins in late spring or early summer, usually around May or June, once its winter-to-spring bloom cycle is complete. Understanding this seasonal rest is fundamental to its long-term survival, as many gardeners mistakenly discard the plant when it appears to be dying. Dormancy is a biological mechanism designed to conserve energy and ensure the plant thrives again in the cooler months.
The Timing and Triggers of Cyclamen Dormancy
The cyclamen is native to the Mediterranean region, flourishing during the cool, moist winter and spring, then retreating during the hot, dry summer. The plant’s internal clock is set to react to environmental cues that mimic its native summer conditions. The dormancy phase usually lasts from late spring through the early fall, often covering the months of May through September.
The primary environmental triggers for this rest period are rising temperatures and lengthening daylight hours. When ambient temperatures consistently climb above 68°F (20°C), the plant signals to slow its metabolism and cease active growth. This response helps the plant’s underground storage organ, the tuber, survive the intense heat and lack of moisture typical of a Mediterranean summer.
The tuber acts as a reservoir, allowing the plant to conserve accumulated energy and moisture. By shedding its foliage, the cyclamen minimizes water loss through transpiration, protecting itself from heat and drought stress. For home growers, understanding this natural response is helpful because an overly warm indoor environment can prematurely trigger dormancy, even outside the typical summer months.
Identifying the Onset of Dormancy
The transition into the dormant state is a gradual process, presenting clear physical signs. The initial indicator is a noticeable slowdown in flowering, followed by the flowers shriveling and dropping off. Soon after, the vibrant green foliage will begin to yellow and wilt as the plant reabsorbs nutrients back into the tuber.
This yellowing and wilting is a normal part of the process, not a sign of disease or neglect. New growth ceases entirely as the plant prepares for rest. Once the leaves have fully yellowed and dried, they can be safely removed. This is preferably done by twisting them gently at the base rather than cutting, which helps prevent rot from entering the tuber. Checking the tuber at this stage confirms dormancy, as a healthy, resting tuber should feel firm and plump beneath the soil surface.
Essential Care During Dormancy
Once the cyclamen has shed its leaves and confirmed dormancy, the care routine must change dramatically to support the resting tuber. The most significant adjustment is to drastically reduce watering, providing just enough moisture to prevent the tuber from completely desiccating. Overwatering is a serious risk during this time, as consistently wet soil can easily lead to fungal diseases and tuber rot.
The plant should then be moved to a cool, dark, or shaded location, such as a cool basement, a closet, or under a dense shrub outdoors, provided temperatures are stable. The ideal storage temperature range is between 50°F and 60°F (10°C to 15°C), as this cool environment helps prolong the rest period. Fertilization must stop entirely, as the plant is not actively growing and cannot utilize the nutrients.
The tuber should remain in its pot, undisturbed, throughout the summer months. Leaving the tuber in its original container keeps it protected and avoids unnecessary stress. In late summer or early fall, when new growth begins to emerge, the plant can be brought back into a brighter location. The regular watering and feeding routine can then be gradually resumed to prepare it for its next flowering season.