Washed rind cheese is a style of cheese whose surface is repeatedly rubbed with a saltwater brine, alcohol, or a combination of both during aging. This washing process encourages a specific community of bacteria to colonize the rind, producing the sticky, orange-hued exterior and pungent aroma the category is known for. The result is a cheese that smells far stronger than it tastes, with a creamy, often meaty interior that softens dramatically as it ripens.
How Washed Rind Cheese Is Made
The process starts like most other cheeses: milk is curdled, drained, shaped into wheels, and salted. What sets washed rind cheese apart is what happens next. Every few days for a couple of weeks (sometimes longer), the cheesemaker rubs the surface of each wheel with a dilute salt brine. This washing does two things at once. It suppresses the molds that would otherwise take over the surface, and it creates ideal conditions for a group of bacteria called coryneforms to thrive.
Each time the cheese is washed, those bacteria spread further across the surface until they form a continuous layer. This bacterial community is what builds the characteristic sticky, orange-to-reddish rind over the course of aging. The washing frequency, the liquid used, and the length of aging all shape the final cheese. Some varieties are aged for just a few weeks, while others develop for months.
What Creates the Smell and Color
The dominant bacterium in most washed rind cheeses is Brevibacterium linens, the same type of bacteria responsible for human body odor (which explains a lot about the smell). As these bacteria break down proteins on the cheese surface, they produce sulfur-containing compounds that give washed rind cheeses their famously pungent aroma. The same bacteria also generate orange-colored carotenoid pigments, which account for the rind’s distinctive hue without any added dye.
The chemistry inside the cheese changes too. Washed rind cheeses start out mildly acidic, but as ripening progresses, the pH climbs toward neutral or even slightly alkaline, reaching 7.0 to 7.5 or higher near the rind. This shift is what causes the interior to soften from the outside in, turning a firm paste into a spoonable, almost liquid center in fully ripe examples. That rising pH also contributes to the complex flavor development, breaking down proteins into savory, umami-rich compounds.
Smell vs. Taste
The single most important thing to know about washed rind cheese is that the aroma and the flavor are two very different experiences. The smell can be genuinely off-putting, ranging from barnyardy to downright funky. But the interior of a well-made washed rind cheese is typically earthy, meaty, and rich with umami, often milder than you’d expect given what your nose is telling you. Many people who think they dislike “stinky cheese” are surprised by how approachable the actual taste is.
Brine, Beer, Wine, and Beyond
Salt brine is the most common washing liquid, but cheesemakers have long experimented with alcohol. Beer is a natural choice, especially malty ales in the farmhouse cheesemaking tradition. White wine tends to lift brightness and acidity in the finished cheese, while red wine adds deeper, more robust notes and a darker rind color. Brandy produces a particularly pungent, complex character. Cider lightens the cheese. Each liquid leaves its own imprint on both the color and flavor of the final product.
The practice of washing with alcohol likely traces back to European monasteries, where monks used brine or diluted spirits to sanitize their aging cheeses. According to one popular account, a monk scrubbing mold off his cheeses with a sanitizing solution discovered that the result was unexpectedly delicious: savory and rich, almost like a meat custard. The monks began eating these cheeses as a protein source during religious fasting periods, and eventually the cheeses became an important source of income for the monasteries.
Classic Examples
Washed rind cheeses are made across Europe and increasingly in the United States, but the tradition runs deepest in France, Belgium, and northern Italy.
- Époisses from Burgundy, France, is one of the most famous. It’s a soft cow’s milk cheese washed with marc de Bourgogne (a local grape brandy), producing a glossy rind and a pale, creamy, slightly salty interior that becomes nearly liquid when fully ripe. Napoleon reportedly called it his favorite cheese.
- Taleggio from the Province of Bergamo in Italy is milder and more approachable. It has a soft, creamy texture and a fruity flavor that belies its strong aroma, making it a good entry point for newcomers.
- Munster from Alsace, France, and Limburger from Belgium and Germany represent the stronger end of the spectrum, with more assertive flavors to match their potent smell.
- Tilsit, originally from East Prussia, is a semi-soft option with a milder wash and a more restrained personality.
Storing and Serving
Washed rind cheeses need humidity. The rind is a living microbial community, and if it dries out, the cheese deteriorates quickly. Aim for at least 80% humidity if you have a cheese storage setup, or simply keep the cheese wrapped loosely in its original packaging (or wax paper) inside the refrigerator. Tight plastic wrap suffocates the rind and traps ammonia, which can make the cheese taste harsh.
For serving, pull the cheese out of the fridge 30 to 60 minutes before you plan to eat it. Room temperature lets the interior soften and the flavors open up. Many cheese enthusiasts who plan to eat a piece within the week will store it on the counter in a cool spot rather than the fridge. If you’re concerned about the smell affecting other foods in your refrigerator, a sealed container with some air space works well.
Washed rind cheeses pair naturally with the same beverages used to wash them. A Belgian ale with an Époisses-style cheese, a glass of Gewürztraminer with Munster, or hard cider with a cider-washed round all play off shared flavor compounds. Crusty bread, roasted potatoes, and cured meats are classic accompaniments that complement the rich, savory character of the paste.