Tree planting is fundamental to reforestation and landscaping, transferring young trees from a nursery to their permanent location. The quality of the planting process heavily influences the ability of seedlings to survive and thrive. Choosing the appropriate tool for setting out tree seedlings is important for efficiency and the long-term health of the new tree. A poorly matched tool can lead to poor root placement, soil compaction, and high mortality rates. Selecting the right implement ensures the delicate root system is placed correctly, setting the stage for successful establishment.
Understanding Common Manual Planting Tools
A planting bar, often called a dibble bar, is a straight, heavy metal tool used to create a narrow, deep slit for bare-root seedlings. It is favored for speed and efficiency when planting thousands of seedlings across flat ground with soft, mineral-rich soil. The planter drives the wedge-shaped blade into the soil and rocks the bar forward and backward to open the slit for rapid root insertion. While fast, the planting bar can cause soil compaction in clay-heavy soils, potentially restricting lateral root growth.
The hoedad, a mattock-like tool with a long handle and heavy, curved blade, offers greater versatility, especially in challenging terrain. It is frequently used for planting on steep slopes, rocky ground, or areas with heavy brush. The hoedad’s weight, typically between 6 and 7.5 pounds, provides the momentum needed to penetrate dense or rocky soil where a planting bar would struggle. Its blade can also be used to scrape away competing vegetation, a process known as scalping, before the planting hole is created.
For containerized planting stock, augers efficiently create a wider, cylindrical hole that accommodates the entire root ball. These tools can be hand-held or mounted on a power drill, quickly digging a hole in a fraction of the time required by hand-digging. Augers are useful for large containerized stock and hard, shallow soils because they pulverize the soil during excavation. However, augers are prone to catching on large roots or rocks. If the soil is wet clay, the rotating action can glaze the sides of the hole, potentially impeding root growth. Simple hand trowels or small shovels are sufficient for very small-scale projects but are inefficient for setting out more than a few dozen seedlings.
Matching the Tool to Soil and Site Conditions
The selection of the planting tool depends heavily on the specific conditions of the site, particularly soil texture and density. In loose, sandy, or loamy mineral soils, the planting bar is the preferred tool for bare-root seedlings due to its speed and efficiency in creating a simple slit. Conversely, when planting into heavy clay, compacted ground, or rocky soil, the robust hoedad provides the necessary leverage and strength to create a proper hole. Using a dibble bar in wet clay can lead to excessive soil compression, compromising the soil structure needed for root expansion.
The type of seedling is a primary factor, differentiating between bare-root and containerized stock. Bare-root seedlings, which have no soil around their roots, are best accommodated by a narrow slit or small hole allowing the roots to be placed straight. Containerized seedlings, or plugs, require a wider opening to accept the intact soil mass without breaking it apart. This makes an auger or specialized shovel more appropriate. The hole must be wide enough to fully insert the root plug without disturbing its structure.
Terrain and the overall scale of the project also influence the choice of equipment. For reforestation projects on steep slopes or in rugged, brush-covered areas, the hoedad is superior. Its angled use and sturdy construction make it easier to operate while navigating uneven ground. On flat, open ground where thousands of bare-root seedlings must be planted quickly, the planting bar’s speed makes it the tool of choice. For small landowners planting container trees, a hand-held auger or standard garden shovel may be the most practical option.
Proper Planting Technique for Seedling Survival
Regardless of the tool used, success hinges on establishing firm root-to-soil contact and proper root placement. The opening must be deep enough to accommodate the full length of the root system without bending it. A common mistake is “J-rooting,” where the taproot is curled upward because the hole was too shallow or narrow. This severely limits the tree’s ability to anchor and access deep moisture. If the roots are too long, they should be pruned rather than bent to fit the space.
The seedling must be placed vertically so the root collar (where the stem meets the roots) is positioned at or slightly below the finished ground line. Planting too deep deprives roots of oxygen, while planting too shallow risks root exposure and drying out. Once the seedling is in place, the most important step is firmly packing the soil around the roots to eliminate all air pockets.
Air pockets are a major cause of mortality because they allow roots to dry out, severing the connection needed for water and nutrient uptake. Using a planting bar requires a two-step closing process: driving the bar in a second spot near the seedling, pulling back to firm the soil at the bottom of the roots, and then pushing forward to firm the soil at the top. For holes created with a hoedad or auger, the soil is backfilled and gently tamped down with a heel or the back of the tool to ensure firm contact. A thorough watering immediately after planting helps settle the soil and eliminate any remaining voids.