The Skip Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus ‘Schipkaensis’) is a favored broadleaf evergreen shrub prized for its dense, upright growth and lustrous dark green foliage, making it popular for privacy hedges and screens. While resilient and adaptable, maintaining its deep green color and robust density requires proper nutrition. Skip Laurels are moderate to heavy feeders, and providing the correct balance of nutrients is important for sustained health and vigorous growth. Fertilization helps the shrub resist environmental stresses and maintain its desirable aesthetic qualities year-round.
Essential Nutritional Requirements and Ideal Fertilizer Types
The best fertilizer prioritizes nitrogen (N) for leaf development and color while providing a steady, controlled release of nutrients over time. Nitrogen is the most important element for this evergreen, as it drives chlorophyll production, which is responsible for the intense green color and dense canopy. A balanced fertilizer or one with a slightly higher nitrogen content is recommended for optimal performance.
Ideal N-P-K ratios include formulas like a balanced 10-10-10 or a nitrogen-heavy 15-5-10. Nitrogen ensures foliage remains thick and dark, while Phosphorus (P) supports strong root development. Potassium (K) helps regulate water movement and increases the plant’s resistance to disease and stress. Nitrogen-rich fertilizers specifically formulated for evergreens or acid-loving plants, such as Holly-Tone, are excellent choices.
A slow-release granular formulation is the superior choice for established shrubs because it meters out nutrients gradually over several months. This slow-feeding prevents a sudden surge of weak, tender growth vulnerable to pests, diseases, and winter damage. The polymer-coated pellets release their contents based on soil temperature and moisture, ensuring the plant receives consistent nutrition throughout the growing season.
The fertilizer should also include essential micronutrients to support deep green foliage. Elements like Magnesium and Iron are necessary for chlorophyll synthesis and contribute significantly to the plant’s color. A deficiency in these minerals can lead to chlorosis, or leaf yellowing, even if nitrogen levels are sufficient. Using a granular product that contains these micronutrients ensures access to the full spectrum of necessary elements.
Proper Timing and Application Methods
The optimal time for the main fertilizer application is in early spring, just before or as the shrub begins its new growth cycle. Fertilizing at this time provides the necessary energy to support the spring flush of leaves and stem elongation. While some gardeners apply a lighter, secondary feeding in early summer or early fall, the spring application is primary for overall health.
Avoid fertilizing too late in the growing season, typically about two months before the first expected frost. Late-season fertilization stimulates new growth that does not have time to harden off before cold weather arrives. This makes the tender tissue extremely susceptible to frost damage and winter burn.
When applying granular fertilizer, the correct placement is around the plant’s drip line—the imaginary circle beneath the outermost tips of the branches. This is where the active feeder roots are located, maximizing nutrient uptake. The product should be spread evenly over this area, and never piled directly against the base or trunk, as this can cause stem burn and damage.
The dosage must strictly follow the product label instructions, which are often based on the size or height of the shrub. After spreading the granular fertilizer, thoroughly water it into the soil to begin the slow-release process and prevent potential burning of surface roots or foliage. Watering allows the nutrients to move into the root zone where they can be absorbed.
Diagnosing Nutrient Deficiencies and Soil Factors
Visual symptoms often signal a nutrient problem, though they can be confused with issues like improper watering or pest damage. A common sign of Nitrogen deficiency is a general yellowing of the older, inner leaves. Since nitrogen is mobile, the shrub pulls this nutrient from older leaves to support new growth, causing the older foliage to become pale and drop.
A different pattern of yellowing, known as interveinal chlorosis, points toward a deficiency in micronutrients like Iron or Manganese. With this chlorosis, the newest leaves turn pale yellow or whitish, but the veins remain distinctly green. This usually occurs because the element is unavailable to the plant due to overly high, or alkaline, soil pH.
Skip Laurels tolerate a wide range of soil conditions but perform best in slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 4.5 to 7.5). When the soil becomes overly alkaline, Iron and Manganese become chemically locked up and inaccessible to the roots, leading to interveinal yellowing. If a shrub struggles despite proper fertilization, a professional soil test is the most reliable way to identify a specific nutrient deficiency or unfavorable pH level.
Over-fertilization, especially with fast-acting liquid formulas, can cause damage appearing as brown or scorched leaf margins, often called “leaf burn.” This happens because the high concentration of salts draws moisture out of the plant tissue. Correcting environmental factors, such as improving drainage or ensuring adequate water, is sometimes more beneficial than adding more fertilizer when a plant’s roots are compromised.