Groundhogs, also known as woodchucks, are burrowing rodents that cause considerable damage to lawns, gardens, and structural foundations. Their habit of feeding on garden produce and digging extensive tunnel systems often necessitates removal. Live trapping is one of the most direct and common methods used by property owners. Success relies on selecting the right attractant and employing a precise baiting strategy. The groundhog’s diet, curiosity, and natural behavior must be considered to maximize the effectiveness of a trap set.
Top Food Lures for Groundhogs
Groundhogs are strict herbivores with a particular fondness for succulent, sweet, and strongly scented vegetation. The most recommended bait for live trapping is fresh cantaloupe. Its strong, musky aroma travels well and draws the animal from its burrow. Cutting the melon to expose the juicy inner pulp enhances the scent dispersal, which is a major factor in attracting the groundhog from a distance.
Sweet fruits such as apples, peaches, and strawberries are also excellent secondary choices. Apples, in particular, are favored because their firm texture allows them to remain fresh and appealing inside a trap longer than softer fruits. If a groundhog has been damaging a garden, using the exact vegetable it has been feeding on—such as corn on the cob, lettuce, or fresh clover—can be highly effective, as this mimics its preferred food source.
To avoid relying solely on fresh produce, commercial paste and liquid lures are available that simulate the groundhog’s favorite natural scents. These attractants often contain concentrated vegetable and berry extracts. Applying a small amount of this specialized lure onto a piece of apple or lettuce can provide both a visual attractant and an intense, long-lasting scent trail.
Strategic Bait Placement Inside the Trap
The placement of the chosen bait is as important as the bait itself, as the goal is to encourage the groundhog to commit fully to entering the trap. A highly effective technique is to create a “bait trail” leading from the outside entrance of the trap to the interior. This trail should consist of small, enticing pieces of the bait, such as melon rind scraps or apple slices, placed progressively closer to the trap opening.
The main portion of the bait must be situated well past the pressure-sensitive trigger plate, forcing the animal to step onto the mechanism to reach the reward. In a single-door cage trap, this means placing the food at the very back wall, behind the trigger plate. For a two-door trap, the bait should be secured directly in the center, underneath or slightly behind the trigger plate.
It is necessary to secure the main bait portion to prevent the groundhog from easily pulling it out without setting off the mechanism. Tying the bait with wire or placing it in a container that is wired to the trap floor ensures the animal must exert pressure on the trigger plate while attempting to feed. Refreshing the bait every 24 to 48 hours is advisable, as fresh scent and texture keep the lure appealing.
Why Trap Type Matters for Bait Success
The design of the trap dictates the baiting strategy, particularly when comparing live-catch cages to body-gripping traps. Live traps rely entirely on the food lure to encourage the groundhog to fully enter the enclosure, requiring a heavy application of appealing bait. The bait in a cage trap must be highly visible and aromatic to overcome the animal’s natural caution toward an unfamiliar structure.
The strategy shifts significantly when using a lethal body-gripping trap, like a Conibear-style trap, which is often placed directly over an active burrow entrance. In this scenario, the trap is primarily functioning as a run-through or blind set, capitalizing on the groundhog’s habit of using a specific, established path. For these sets, bait is frequently unnecessary or used only sparingly as a directional guide rather than a strong lure.
If bait is used with a body-gripping trap, a small piece of apple or lure may be placed just beyond the trigger wires. However, the focus remains on path obstruction, where the trap is camouflaged and staked down to create a forced passage. This contrasts sharply with the live-trapping method, which relies on the power of a food attractant to overcome the groundhog’s reluctance to enter a dead-end enclosure.