Seed garlic refers to high-quality garlic specifically cultivated for propagation rather than immediate consumption. This specialized garlic is necessary because the bulb is not a true seed but a clonal reproductive organ, meaning the resulting bulb will be an exact genetic copy of the planted clove. Understanding the difference between planting stock and cooking garlic is the first step toward growing large, healthy bulbs.
Defining Seed Garlic vs. Culinary Garlic
The distinction between seed garlic and culinary garlic is primarily a matter of horticultural selection and grading. Seed garlic is essentially the “cream of the crop,” consisting of the largest, healthiest, and blemish-free bulbs from a harvest. Growers reserve these premium bulbs, as the size of the planted clove directly influences the size of the resulting mature bulb.
Conversely, culinary garlic comprises the remaining bulbs—those that are smaller, medium-sized, or perhaps slightly less perfect in appearance. These smaller bulbs will produce smaller, less desirable bulbs if planted. Additionally, grocery store garlic is often treated with anti-sprouting hormones to prolong shelf life, which can prevent or significantly hinder growth if planted. Culinary garlic is also typically not certified disease-free, potentially introducing pathogens into the garden.
Key Types for Planting: Hardneck vs. Softneck
Garlic varieties are broadly categorized into two groups. Hardneck garlic, scientifically known as Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon, is characterized by a stiff, woody central stalk that gives the plant its name. This group is typically favored in colder climates because it requires a period of prolonged cold exposure, called vernalization, to properly develop bulbs.
They generally produce fewer cloves per bulb, but the individual cloves are often larger and easier to peel. Hardnecks also tend to have a more complex and robust flavor profile, but their storage life is shorter, typically ranging from four to eight months.
Softneck garlic, Allium sativum var. sativum, lacks the rigid central stalk, resulting in a flexible neck that makes it ideal for braiding after harvest. This type is better suited for regions with milder winters since it does not require intense cold to form a bulb. Softneck bulbs contain numerous, tightly packed, smaller cloves.
The tight wrapping of the bulb skins on softneck varieties contributes to their superior storage capability, often lasting nine to twelve months under proper conditions. These characteristics mean softnecks are the common type found in most supermarkets. The milder flavor and long storage life make them a popular choice for both commercial growers and home gardeners in warmer areas.
Preparing and Planting Seed Garlic
Planting preparation begins with “cracking” or separating the cloves from the bulb just before it goes into the ground. This separation should be done immediately prior to planting to prevent the cloves from drying out. It is important to select only the largest and healthiest cloves from the bulb, reserving any smaller ones for cooking, as bigger cloves yield bigger bulbs.
Planting should occur in the fall, typically between late September and November, roughly four to six weeks before the ground freezes solid. This timing allows the cloves to establish a strong root system before winter while preventing too much leaf growth above ground. Each clove is pushed into loose, well-draining soil with the pointed end facing up and the flat, basal plate end facing down.
For optimal growth, cloves should be planted two to four inches deep, with the deeper planting providing better winter protection in extremely cold climates. Adequate spacing is also necessary; a general rule is to place cloves about four to eight inches apart within the row. Widening the spacing, even up to 12 inches, can promote the growth of the largest possible bulbs.