Per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances (PFCs) are synthetic chemicals used extensively in the textile industry. The primary function of PFCs in clothing is to create a durable water and stain-resistant finish, responsible for the performance of gear from outdoor jackets to casual wear. These compounds became a standard in functional textiles, but their widespread use is controversial due to growing concerns about their environmental fate and potential health effects.
Understanding PFCs and Their Purpose
PFCs are used to create a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish, particularly on outerwear and technical gear. These chemicals possess a unique molecular structure with extremely strong carbon-fluorine bonds that result in very low surface energy. This low surface energy causes liquids like water and oil to bead up and roll off the fabric instead of soaking in, allowing the textile to remain dry and breathable.
For decades, this chemistry was considered the gold standard for performance textiles because no other substance could achieve both superior water and oil repellency with such durability. Historically, the industry relied on long-chain PFCs, such as those with eight carbon atoms (C8 chemistry), including Perfluorooctanoic Acid (PFOA) and Perfluorooctane Sulfonate (PFOS). Manufacturers transitioned to shorter-chain versions, like those with six carbon atoms (C6 chemistry), which were initially believed to be safer and less persistent. However, these newer compounds still fall under the broader PFC/PFAS category and share the fundamental fluorinated chemical structure that causes environmental problems.
Environmental Persistence and Health Risks
The chemical stability that makes PFCs effective at repelling moisture also makes them a significant environmental hazard. These substances are often called “forever chemicals” because the carbon-fluorine bond is extremely strong, meaning they do not naturally degrade and can persist for hundreds or thousands of years. During manufacturing, use, and disposal, PFCs are released into the air, water, and soil, contaminating ecosystems globally.
PFCs bioaccumulate, building up in the bodies of living organisms, including humans and animals. The most studied long-chain PFCs, such as PFOA and PFOS, have been linked to a range of adverse health outcomes in epidemiological studies. Exposure has been associated with effects on the immune system, including a reduced response to vaccines, and with endocrine disruption, which can interfere with the body’s natural hormones, particularly thyroid function.
Other health concerns linked to exposure include developmental issues in children, such as low birth weight and behavioral changes, and increased risks for certain cancers, including kidney and testicular cancer. While the direct risk to a consumer wearing PFC-treated clothing is considered low, the larger issue remains the vast environmental contamination and long-term health implications from exposure through contaminated water, food, and air.
Identifying and Choosing PFC-Free Clothing
Consumers looking to avoid these chemicals should be aware that product labels may not explicitly mention PFCs, often using the generic term Durable Water Repellent (DWR) instead. The most reliable way to identify safer products is to look for clear labeling that states “PFC-free DWR” or “PFAS-free.” A number of major outdoor apparel brands have already committed to phasing out these fluorinated compounds, a transition often driven by consumer demand and environmental initiatives.
The industry is rapidly shifting toward non-fluorinated alternatives to achieve water repellency. These newer treatments are typically silicone-based, wax-based, or utilize advanced plant-based polymers. While these alternatives may not always offer the same level of oil-repellency as older PFCs, their water-repellent performance is continually improving and often meets high standards.
When shopping, prioritize brands that are transparent about their DWR chemistry and have committed to third-party standards, such as the Bluesign certification, which restricts the use of all PFCs. Maintaining the water-repellent finish often involves regular cleaning and re-treating the garment with a PFC-free wash-in or spray-on product, which helps sustain performance.