The term “rose tree” often conjures an image of a woody plant that naturally grows tall, but this is a common misunderstanding in horticulture. A rose tree is not a botanical tree species but is a common name for a Standard Rose, which is a rose bush that has been cultivated and trained into a tree-like form. This unique shape is achieved through a specialized grafting technique that elevates the flowering portion of the plant. This process creates a stunning vertical accent in gardens, but it also necessitates specific care different from a traditional rose bush.
What Defines a Rose Tree
A Standard Rose is a composite plant, meaning it is made up of at least two distinct parts joined together to form a cohesive structure. The entire plant is founded upon a robust rootstock, which is the subterranean part providing the vigor and hardiness, often derived from a wild rose species like Rosa canina or Dr. Huey. Extending from this root system is a single, straight cane, commonly referred to as the standard or trunk, which is kept clear of foliage and side shoots. This cane is rigid and determines the final height of the plant, typically ranging from 2 to 4 feet, as it will never grow taller once set.
The scion, which is the desired flowering rose variety, is grafted onto the top of the standard. This creates a dense, rounded crown of foliage and flowers, positioning the blooms at eye level. The graft union, where the scion meets the trunk, gives the plant its distinctive “lollipop” appearance. Unlike a natural tree whose trunk thickens over time, the cane of a standard rose remains a woody stem and requires permanent external support.
The Process of Creating a Standard Rose
The creation of this specific form involves a specialized horticultural technique known as budding or grafting. The process begins with selecting and training a straight, vigorous cane from a rootstock plant to serve as the future trunk. The time investment required to prepare this sturdy stem contributes significantly to the higher purchase price of a standard rose compared to a traditional bush.
Once the standard is ready, a bud from the desired flowering rose variety, such as a Hybrid Tea or Floribunda, is carefully inserted into the bark near the top of the cane. This is typically done using a T-budding technique, where a T-shaped cut receives the single bud. Multiple buds may be grafted onto the cane’s top to ensure a full, symmetrical crown develops. If successful, the inserted bud will knit with the standard’s tissue, growing into the decorative head of the rose tree.
Essential Care and Maintenance
The elevated, grafted nature of a standard rose means it has particular care requirements, starting immediately with planting and support. Staking is essential because the top-heavy crown is vulnerable to snapping at the graft union during strong winds. The permanent stake should be driven securely into the ground near the stem, reaching up to the graft union for maximum stability. The stem must be loosely secured to the stake at several points to allow slight movement while preventing breakage.
Pruning the crown of a standard rose is performed in late winter or early spring, similar to the rose bush variety it is derived from. The goal is to remove dead or weak wood and shape the canopy into a balanced, rounded form. Shoots, known as suckers, that grow from the standard below the graft union must be removed immediately, as they belong to the vigorous rootstock and will drain energy from the flowering head.
Winter protection is the primary concern in colder climates because the vulnerable graft union is exposed high above the ground. For container-grown standards, the safest method is moving the pot into an unheated, sheltered space like a garage (32 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit). If the plant is in the ground in zones 6 and colder, the head must be insulated by wrapping it with straw, burlap, or a dedicated rose hood to prevent freezing. Watering needs are consistent, but feeding should cease by late summer to encourage dormancy before winter.