A pruning saw is a specialized handsaw designed for cutting live, green wood, such as tree branches and woody shrub stems. This tool is necessary when a limb is too thick to be safely removed with smaller handheld implements like bypass pruners or lopping shears. Its primary function is to maintain the health and desired shape of plants by removing overgrown, damaged, or diseased sections. Pruning saws allow for clean cuts on diameters typically ranging from 1.5 to 4 inches, ensuring the cut wound heals properly.
Essential Design Features
The features of a pruning saw distinguish it from a standard woodworking handsaw, particularly its aggressive blade design. The saw teeth are often triple-ground, meaning three cutting edges are sharpened onto each tooth, making the blade efficient. These teeth are frequently impulse-hardened, a process that uses heat to harden only the tips. This hardening allows the teeth to remain sharp for a long time without requiring frequent maintenance or resharpening.
A hallmark of a pruning saw is its ability to cut primarily on the pull stroke, often referred to as Japanese-style cutting. This pull-action minimizes the blade’s tendency to flex or buckle while drawing it toward the user. This flexing is a common issue when pushing a saw through dense, green wood. Many blades also incorporate a raker tooth pattern, where small gaps help clear damp sawdust and sap, preventing the blade from binding.
Pruning saw blades are often slightly curved, which concentrates cutting energy onto a smaller section of the branch. This curvature improves the saw’s contact with the wood, especially when cutting above shoulder height or in awkward positions, providing better leverage. Handles are designed to be ergonomic, often featuring a pistol-grip shape and non-slip material. This design allows for a secure, powerful grip and reduces hand fatigue during extended use.
Choosing the Right Type for the Job
Selecting the appropriate pruning saw depends on the size, height, and location of the branches that need removal. For general garden maintenance and removing smaller branches, typically one to three inches in diameter, a folding saw is an excellent choice. The blade tucks safely into the handle for easy transport in a pocket or garden bag, making it highly portable and safe to carry.
For more aggressive cutting on medium-sized limbs, a fixed-blade saw with a curved profile offers superior performance. The fixed nature of the blade provides greater rigidity and leverage, allowing for rapid, deep cuts with minimal effort. Conversely, a fixed saw with a straight blade is preferred when precision is necessary, such as making a final flush cut near the trunk or when working in tight, confined areas.
To address branches too high to reach safely from the ground, the manual pole saw is required. This tool mounts a pruning saw blade onto a long extension pole. This allows the user to reach limbs up to 10 to 15 feet off the ground. Pole saws are typically used for branches up to two inches in diameter, prioritizing reach and control over high-speed cutting.
Mastering the Cut: Technique and Safety
Effective use of a pruning saw relies on the correct technique, emphasizing the pull stroke to maximize the aggressive tooth design’s efficiency. Use long, steady strokes, allowing the entire length of the blade to engage the wood. Apply only moderate pressure on the pull stroke and virtually no pressure on the return push stroke.
When removing large limbs, employ the three-cut method to protect the tree from severe bark damage, known as stripping. The first cut is a shallow undercut made on the branch’s underside, positioned a few inches away from the trunk or main limb. The second cut is then made from the top, further out on the limb. This allows the weight of the branch to snap off cleanly between the two cuts.
This two-step process removes the bulk of the weight, leaving a short stub for the third and final cut. This last cut is made just outside the branch collar, the slightly swollen area where the branch meets the trunk. This ensures the tree’s natural wound compartmentalization process begins immediately.
Safety and Maintenance
Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment, including work gloves and safety glasses. The blade should be cleaned of sticky sap after each use with a mild solvent to prevent residue buildup, maintaining cutting efficiency and preventing blade binding.