The Lipstick Plant is a popular and visually striking houseplant celebrated for its unique, colorful blooms and characteristic trailing vines. It is frequently grown in hanging baskets, allowing its long, arching stems to cascade dramatically over the edges. The plant’s common name is derived from its fascinating flower buds, which emerge from a dark, tubular calyx, looking remarkably like a tube of lipstick before the vibrant corolla pushes out. This tropical epiphyte, known for its lush, evergreen foliage, offers a rewarding growing experience for indoor gardeners seeking an attractive, flowering specimen.
Identification and Native Environment
The plant belongs to the genus Aeschynanthus, an extensive group of approximately 150 species within the family Gesneriaceae, which also includes the African Violet. Common species cultivated as houseplants include Aeschynanthus radicans and Aeschynanthus pulcher.
The physical appearance of the plant is marked by thick, waxy, dark green leaves that grow in opposite pairs along the trailing stems. This foliage gives the plant a resilient, succulent-like appearance, helping it retain moisture in its natural habitat. The flowers are the main attraction, typically a brilliant scarlet or orange-red, emerging from a maroon or dark-colored calyx in clusters near the stem tips.
Its natural range is the tropical and subtropical rainforests of Southeast Asia, including regions like Malaysia, Indonesia, and Thailand. In this environment, the Lipstick Plant grows as an epiphyte, meaning it naturally anchors itself to the trunks and branches of larger trees rather than rooting in the ground. This growth habit means the plant is adapted to receiving filtered light and moisture that drains away almost immediately, a detail that heavily influences its care indoors.
Essential Care Requirements
To replicate the plant’s preferred forest canopy environment indoors, positioning it to receive bright, indirect light is necessary for healthy growth and prolific blooming. A location near an east or west-facing window is often ideal, as this provides ample light without the risk of scorching the leaves that direct, intense afternoon sun would cause. Insufficient light will typically result in leggy growth and a noticeable lack of flowers.
The epiphytic nature of the plant dictates a specific watering regimen; it requires consistent moisture but cannot tolerate sitting in saturated soil. The recommended approach is the “soak and dry” method, where the plant is watered thoroughly when the top inch of potting medium has dried out. Overwatering is the single most common cause of problems, leading quickly to root rot and premature leaf drop.
A specialized potting mix is necessary to ensure the quick drainage the plant’s roots demand, with a mixture designed for orchids or African violets working well. This medium is typically airy and includes components like perlite, sphagnum moss, or bark chips to prevent compaction. The plant thrives in high humidity, ideally 50% or higher, which can be achieved by placing the pot on a pebble tray filled with water or by grouping it with other moisture-loving plants.
Maintaining a stable temperature is also important, as the Lipstick Plant is sensitive to cold. The ideal indoor temperature range is consistently between 65°F and 75°F. Exposure to cold drafts or temperatures falling below 50°F can cause significant stress, resulting in the rapid shedding of leaves.
Specialized Maintenance and Propagation
Regular pruning is beneficial for the Lipstick Plant, serving to maintain a full, bushy appearance and to stimulate the production of new growth, which is where the flowers develop. The best time to prune is immediately after a flowering cycle has finished to shape the plant and encourage new buds for the next season. Cutting back overly long or bare stems will help concentrate the plant’s energy and lead to denser foliage.
During the active growing period of spring and summer, the plant benefits from a monthly application of a balanced, liquid houseplant fertilizer. This feeding should be done using a solution diluted to about half the recommended strength to prevent root burn. Fertilizing should be significantly reduced or stopped entirely during the fall and winter months when the plant’s growth naturally slows.
Increasing your stock is simple using the method of stem cuttings, which is most effective when taken during the spring or summer. Select a healthy, non-flowering stem approximately four to six inches long and remove the lower leaves to expose at least two nodes. These cuttings can be rooted either in a glass of water or directly in a moist, light potting mix, such as a blend of perlite and vermiculite.
To ensure successful rooting, the cuttings should be placed in a warm spot with bright, indirect light and kept under high humidity. High humidity is sometimes achieved by loosely covering the pot with a clear plastic bag. While generally robust, the plant can occasionally suffer from common houseplant pests. These can typically be managed by washing the foliage with a gentle stream of water or treating the affected areas with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Common Pests
- Mealybugs
- Spider mites
- Aphids