The term “lavender tree” describes an elegant, highly sought-after plant form known for its fragrant, globe-shaped crown of blooms. This popular name is a common misnomer, as lavender does not naturally grow into a true tree structure. Lavender plants, belonging to the genus Lavandula, are native to the dry, rocky regions of the Mediterranean and are prized for their aromatic oils and distinct purple flowers. The visual effect of a miniature tree is achieved entirely through deliberate horticultural training, transforming the plant’s natural mounding shape into a formal, elevated silhouette.
The Botanical Classification of Lavender
Botanically, lavender is classified as a subshrub or woody perennial shrub, not a tree. This distinction is based on the plant’s stem structure; shrubs typically have multiple stems arising from the base, while true trees develop a single, persistent, woody trunk. Lavender’s natural growth pattern is low and mounding, with numerous semi-woody stems that become increasingly woody at the base as the plant ages.
This woody base allows the plant to persist for many years, but it never develops the thick, singular trunk characteristic of a true tree. The plant’s resilience and ability to develop woody tissue make it suitable for training, even though it naturally wants to spread out. This multi-stemmed, bushy habit helps the plant survive arid conditions in its native environment.
Understanding the “Tree” Appearance
The appearance of a lavender tree results from a specialized technique known as training a “standard” or topiary. This horticultural process manipulates a shrub’s natural growth to create an artificial, elevated structure. The goal is to establish a single, vertical stem that serves as a trunk, topped by a dense, rounded mass of foliage and flowers called the crown. This transformation requires patience and precise pruning actions over many months.
To begin, a young plant with a strong, straight central stem is selected. All other side shoots are meticulously removed from the lower portion of the plant. This main stem is then staked firmly to encourage straight, vertical growth, forming the future trunk of the standard. New lateral branches are allowed to develop only at the desired height of the crown, redirecting the plant’s energy upward.
The classic, rounded shape of the crown is maintained through frequent, light pruning, which encourages dense, bushy growth at the top. This contrast between the bare, rigid lower trunk and the lush, spherical canopy creates the striking resemblance to a miniature tree. The resulting standard lavender showcases the grower’s skill in shaping a naturally sprawling shrub into a formal, compact silhouette.
Key Species Used for Standard Forms
Certain species of Lavandula are favored for creating standard forms because of their inherent growth characteristics. English Lavender, or Lavandula angustifolia, is a common choice due to its relatively straight stems and robust nature. This species is also highly valued for its intense fragrance and is the most cold-hardy of the cultivated lavenders, making it a reliable choice for training.
Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is popular for its unique, winged flower bracts and exceptionally long blooming period. French Lavender (Lavandula dentata) is utilized in warmer regions because of its vigorous growth rate and ability to handle mild humidity. These types work well because their stems become sufficiently woody and straight to support the weight of the crown when trained.
Maintaining the Standard Lavender
Maintaining the standard form requires consistent, targeted pruning to preserve the artificial structure. The primary task is the regular trimming of the crown to keep its spherical shape dense and tidy. This shaping is typically performed after the main flush of bloom has faded, removing up to one-third of the new growth to promote branching. Consistent shearing prevents the crown from becoming loose or sprawling, which compromises the formal appearance.
Monitoring the single trunk is equally important, as the plant will naturally attempt to revert to its shrub form by producing new shoots, called suckers. Any growth emerging below the crown must be pruned immediately to maintain the clean, bare trunk. For standards grown in containers, seasonal considerations are necessary, as the elevated root ball is more vulnerable to cold. In harsh winters, container-grown standards often need to be moved indoors or protected with insulation.