When adding trees to a landscape, buyers often choose the bare root presentation, especially for large-scale projects or fruit trees. This cost-effective approach involves purchasing a tree without any soil or potting medium surrounding its roots. Understanding the unique characteristics and precise steps required for handling and installation is crucial for successful establishment. This method requires strict adherence to planting timelines and preparation protocols.
Defining the Bare Root State
A bare root tree is grown in a field and mechanically dug up while the plant is dormant. The soil is then washed or shaken off, leaving the roots completely exposed before shipping. This process occurs only during the non-growing season, typically late fall through early spring, when metabolic activity is minimal.
This dormancy period, generally between November and March, is the only window for successful planting. While the absence of soil makes the plant lighter and easier to transport, it creates a vulnerability to desiccation. The delicate roots must be kept moist until they can be placed into the ground.
Advantages Over Other Methods
The bare root method offers several practical and horticultural benefits. Bare root stock is often the least expensive option due to lower nursery maintenance costs and reduced weight for shipping. A tree without a heavy soil ball is also much easier to handle and transport, making it suitable for high-volume planting projects.
Horticulturally, bare root trees tend to establish quickly because their roots have not been confined to a pot, preventing the development of circling or girdling roots. The visible root system allows the planter to inspect for damage and properly spread the roots out, ensuring better contact with the native soil. Furthermore, a bare root tree retains a much greater portion of its original root system compared to a balled-and-burlapped tree.
Preparation and Installation Guide
Upon receiving a bare root tree, the most immediate requirement is protecting the roots from exposure to air and sun, which can cause rapid drying. If the tree cannot be planted immediately, its roots must be kept in a cool, dark environment and covered with moist materials like peat moss, shredded paper, or damp mulch. Before the actual planting, the roots should be rehydrated by soaking them in water for a period of one to six hours, but never longer than 24 hours, as prolonged soaking can effectively drown the roots.
Before placing the tree in the ground, use sharp shears to prune away any broken, damaged, or excessively long roots. The planting hole should be dug wide, ideally two to three times the spread of the root system. It should only be deep enough so that the root collar—the point where the roots meet the trunk—rests slightly above the surrounding soil grade.
When setting the tree, spread the roots radially over a small mound of soil built in the center of the hole, ensuring they are not bent or compressed. Backfill the hole with the original soil, gently firming it to eliminate air pockets. Once the hole is filled, immediately saturate the area with water to settle the soil around the fine root hairs, aiding in necessary root-to-soil contact.