Roses are a popular addition to any garden. A bare root rose is a specific way of purchasing and planting this classic flowering shrub. This method involves buying a rose that has been harvested from the field while it is completely dormant, a technique often favored for its long-term benefits.
Defining the Dormant Rose
A bare root rose is a plant sold without any soil or container around its root system. This is possible because the rose is in a state of deep dormancy, typically from late fall through early spring. During this period, the plant conserves energy in its roots, halting above-ground growth.
When a bare root rose arrives, it resembles a bundle of woody sticks with an exposed mass of roots. The stems are bare of leaves and flowers, and the root mass is often wrapped in a moisture-retaining material like sawdust, peat moss, or shredded paper. This temporary appearance confirms the plant is resting, making it lightweight and easy to handle.
Bare Root vs. Container Roses
The choice between a bare root rose and a container rose affects the plant’s establishment and the buyer’s selection. Bare root roses are significantly more cost-effective, often priced lower because they lack the container and heavy potting mix, which reduces overhead and shipping costs. This format also offers a much wider selection of varieties, as growers can easily harvest and ship more stock than they can containerize.
The primary advantage of a bare root rose is that it encourages superior root establishment. When planted, the dormant roots grow directly into the native garden soil, allowing the plant to acclimate without the boundary of a potting medium. Conversely, container roses offer instant gratification but can suffer from girdled roots, potentially hindering long-term health if not corrected. A bare root rose, planted during dormancy, focuses its initial energy on developing a strong, expansive root structure before supporting top growth.
Immediate Care Upon Arrival
The period between receiving and permanently planting a bare root rose is critical, as the roots must be protected from drying out. Upon arrival, inspect the plant for damage, such as broken canes or shriveled roots, and prune these back to healthy tissue. The most important step is rehydration, which involves soaking the entire root system in plain water for 12 to 24 hours.
If immediate planting is not possible, the rose must be stored to maintain dormancy and moisture. For a short delay (up to two weeks), keep the rose in its original packaging in a cool, dark location, such as an unheated garage, where temperatures remain above freezing. For longer delays, “heeling in” is necessary, which involves temporarily planting the rose in a shallow trench and covering the roots with soil or sand until the permanent site is ready.
The Proper Planting Technique
The success of a bare root rose depends on a careful planting process that begins with selecting the correct site. Roses require at least four to six hours of direct sunlight daily and excellent drainage to prevent root rot. The planting hole should be prepared to be roughly twice as wide as the root mass and deep enough to accommodate the full length of the roots without crowding them.
Before placing the plant, amend the soil removed from the hole with organic material, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to improve fertility and structure. Build a small cone-shaped mound of this amended soil in the center of the planting hole. Center the rose on this mound, spreading the roots carefully out and downward over the soil cone.
A defining feature is the bud union, the thickened knob where the desired rose variety is grafted onto the rootstock. In colder climates (USDA Zone 5 and lower), this union must be buried two to six inches below the finished soil line for frost protection. In warmer climates, it should remain slightly above or level with the soil surface.
Once positioned, the hole is backfilled with the remaining amended soil, gently tamping it down to eliminate air pockets around the roots. The final step is a deep, thorough watering immediately after backfilling to settle the soil and fully hydrate the roots. Finally, prune the canes back to three to five of the strongest stems, cutting them to four to six inches above the crown, with each cut made just above an outward-facing bud.