The lei is a universally recognized garland, symbolizing affection, respect, and welcome in Polynesian tradition. This cultural practice involves gathering and assembling various natural materials, transforming them into an expression of the aloha spirit. Gifting a lei marks significant life events, from celebrations and graduations to honoring visitors upon arrival. The construction relies on both the properties of the chosen flora and the masterful techniques used to bind them.
The Most Common Floral Materials
Many leis are crafted using blossoms selected for their fragrance, vibrant color, and resilience. The star-shaped Plumeria (Melia), often called frangipani, is perhaps the most iconic bloom used. These waxy blossoms are known for their sweet, pervasive fragrance and are typically strung using a piercing method due to their robust structure.
Dendrobium orchids are a common floral choice, prized for their durability and long-lasting freshness. These flowers come in a wide palette of colors, from white to lavender and green. Their mild scent makes them suitable for those sensitive to stronger perfumes. The orchid’s structure allows hundreds of individual flowers to be tightly strung, creating a dense garland that holds its shape well.
The pristine white blooms of the tuberose are highly sought after for their powerfully aromatic experience. This flower possesses an intense, sweet fragrance, especially noticeable in the evening hours, making it frequent for special occasions. Tuberose buds are usually strung while still closed, allowing the scent to intensify as the flowers slowly open while being worn.
Carnations, known as Ponimoʻi in Hawaiian, offer lei makers an array of colors and a sturdy petal structure that provides volume. Historically, red and white carnations were significant, with the red variety often associated with male wearers. Their ruffled, dense appearance allows them to be strung tightly, creating a robust and visually striking lei.
Beyond Flowers: Non-Floral Lei Materials
While flowers are often the primary focus, some celebrated leis are created entirely from non-floral botanical elements. The revered Maile vine is the gold standard of open-ended leis, reserved for formal occasions and ceremonies. The vine’s glossy, dark green leaves and vanilla-like fragrance are highly valued, and the lei is typically constructed without flowers to drape gracefully around the neck.
The flexible leaves of the Ti plant are frequently used in lei making, symbolizing good luck, protection, and high rank. Ti leaves are often softened by steaming or freezing before being braided into a rope-like lei or used as a base to wrap more fragile flowers. Their robustness means that Ti leaf leis are long-lasting and retain their vibrant green color.
Durable, permanent leis are often crafted from materials such as the polished black or brown Kukui nuts, which come from the official state tree of Hawaiʻi. These nuts are drilled, sanded, and strung, creating a lustrous, enduring garland worn for years. Additionally, small, colorful shells are strung together to create delicate, intricate leis that offer a non-perishable alternative to fresh flowers.
Different Styles of Lei Construction
The raw materials dictate the construction technique, resulting in distinct visual and structural styles. The most recognizable method is Kui, which involves using a needle and thread to pierce and string individual blossoms or materials end-to-end. This technique is commonly employed for single-strand leis made from flowers such as plumeria, orchids, and tuberose, resulting in a continuous, necklace-like drape.
A second technique is Haku, which involves braiding or weaving materials onto a base of fibrous material like bark or cordage. The materials are placed facing outward and secured by the braided base, resulting in a flat, dense appearance. Haku leis are frequently worn on the head (lei poʻo) or wrist, showcasing an intricate pattern of layered flowers and foliage.
The third style is Wili, which translates to “to twist” or “to wrap,” and involves binding materials onto a base with a fine thread or cord. Short lengths of flowers or foliage are continuously wrapped and secured to a central backing, often a strip of bark or cord. This method is often used for the Maile lei, where the wrapping secures the leaves and vines in a spiral pattern around a core.