Licorice root is one of the more versatile botanical ingredients in skincare, with compounds that brighten dark spots, calm inflammation, fight acne, and protect against UV damage. It contains several active compounds that each work through different pathways, which is why it shows up in everything from serums targeting hyperpigmentation to moisturizers designed for sensitive, reactive skin.
How It Fades Dark Spots and Evens Skin Tone
Licorice root contains at least two compounds that reduce hyperpigmentation, and they work in completely different ways. The first, glabridin, blocks the enzyme your skin uses to produce melanin (the pigment responsible for dark spots). It does this by binding to the enzyme and changing its shape, preventing it from functioning normally. In lab studies, glabridin’s skin-lightening effect has been measured at 16 times greater than hydroquinone, the gold standard prescription brightener.
The second compound, liquiritin, doesn’t stop melanin production at all. Instead, it disperses melanin that’s already sitting in your skin, breaking up existing pigment clusters. In a clinical study of 20 people with melasma, applying a liquiritin cream daily for four weeks produced satisfactory to excellent results. A separate trial found that 4% liquiritin cream was significantly more effective than 2% hydroquinone for treating epidermal melasma.
This dual approach is what makes licorice root particularly effective for uneven skin tone. You’re simultaneously slowing down new pigment production and clearing out pigment that’s already there. In a head-to-head comparison, a hydroquinone-free brightening product containing glabridin produced greater increases in skin brightness than 4% hydroquinone cream.
Anti-Inflammatory and Soothing Effects
Several licorice compounds reduce inflammation through the same signaling pathways that drive redness, irritation, and swelling in skin. Liquiritin specifically suppresses the cellular signals that trigger inflammatory responses. Licochalcone A, another active compound, is widely used in formulations for sensitive and redness-prone skin because of its calming properties.
This anti-inflammatory action has practical implications beyond just comfort. Inflammation drives post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (those dark marks left behind after a breakout or irritation), so calming inflammation helps prevent new dark spots from forming in the first place. It also makes licorice root a useful ingredient for people who react poorly to more aggressive actives like retinoids or chemical exfoliants.
UV Protection and Antioxidant Activity
UVB exposure triggers a cascade of damage in skin cells, partly by generating reactive oxygen species (free radicals) that harm DNA and accelerate aging. In lab studies on human skin cells, UVB exposure increased free radical levels by 5.2 times compared to unexposed cells. Treating those cells with licorice extract cut free radical levels roughly in half.
Licorice extract won’t replace sunscreen, but it adds a layer of antioxidant defense that helps neutralize the oxidative stress UV exposure creates. Glabridin at concentrations as low as 0.5% has been shown to inhibit UV-induced pigmentation and redness, meaning it can help prevent the sun-triggered dark spots that bring many people to brightening products in the first place.
Benefits for Acne-Prone Skin
Licorice root hits acne from several angles at once. It has antimicrobial properties that target acne-causing bacteria, anti-inflammatory effects that reduce the redness and swelling of active breakouts, and anti-androgenic activity that may help regulate the hormonal signals driving excess oil production. On top of that, its depigmenting properties address the dark marks breakouts leave behind, which for many people are more frustrating than the acne itself.
This combination of properties makes licorice extract particularly well-suited for darker skin tones, where post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation tends to be more pronounced and can linger for months. Unlike hydroquinone, which carries risks of irritation and a rare but serious side effect called ochronosis with long-term use, licorice extract is considered one of the safest skin-lightening ingredients available, with minimal reported side effects.
What to Look for in Products
Licorice extract is effective across a wide concentration range. Clinical studies have used formulations ranging from 2% liquiritin creams to 40% licorice extract creams, all with measurable results. For targeted brightening, look for products that list glabridin, liquiritin, or licorice root extract (sometimes labeled as Glycyrrhiza glabra) near the top of the ingredient list. A concentration of 10% to 20% licorice extract is a reasonable middle ground for over-the-counter products, though lower concentrations still work, especially in combination with other brightening ingredients.
Most clinical studies applied licorice-based products twice daily for four weeks before assessing results, so give any new product at least a month of consistent use before judging its effectiveness. Licorice root pairs well with other brightening agents like vitamin C and niacinamide because they target different steps in the pigmentation process. It also layers comfortably under sunscreen, which you’ll want to wear consistently since UV exposure will counteract any brightening benefits.