A rip current is a powerful, narrow stream of water that flows swiftly away from the shore, extending through the line of breaking waves and out into the deeper ocean. They form when water pushed toward the beach by incoming waves must find a path back out to sea. These currents are not an undertow that pulls a person down, but rather a horizontal conveyor belt that carries a swimmer away from the beach. A strong rip can move as fast as eight feet per second, faster than most Olympic swimmers can sustain. This rapid pull into deeper water can lead to panic and exhaustion, causing over 100 drownings in the United States annually.
Key Visual Cues for Identification
Observing the water from an elevated position on the shore is the most effective way to spot the features of a rip current. The most telling sign is a noticeable gap or break in the pattern of incoming white-capped waves. In this area, the waves are not breaking because the current flowing out to sea opposes and flattens the incoming surf. This creates a path of darker, flatter, or seemingly calmer water flanked by the normal line of breaking waves.
The water within the current often appears visually different from the surrounding ocean because of the material it is carrying. A rip current acts like a channel, churning up sand, sediment, and organic matter from the seabed as it flows seaward. This action can make the water within the current look muddier, darker, or a different color than the clear, blue water nearby.
Another sign is a channel of choppy, turbulent water. Even if the water appears dark, the surface texture may be rippled or swirling, indicating rapid movement. This turbulent surface is often accompanied by a line of foam, seaweed, or floating debris moving steadily and directly out toward the open ocean. Observing the sustained, outward movement of this debris confirms the presence of a strong seaward flow.
Where Rip Currents Typically Form
Rip currents form when wave-driven water is funneled back out to sea through the path of least resistance. The most common location is within a low spot or break in an underwater sandbar. The sandbar acts as a submerged barrier, and the water level difference forces a rapid outflow through any natural channel or depression in the bar.
The presence of fixed, human-made structures also creates predictable locations for rip current formation. These structures, which include jetties, piers, and groynes, block the longshore flow of water, causing it to build up and then be deflected outward along the side of the structure. These structurally-controlled rip currents are often persistent and can occur even when the waves are small.
Rip currents can also form on beaches without obvious sandbars or structures, particularly where wave energy varies along the shore. The water tends to rush out through sections where the waves are breaking less frequently or with less power. Swimmers should remain vigilant and observe conditions before entering the water.
Immediate Safety Steps
If you are caught in a rip current, remain calm and avoid panicking. Do not attempt to swim directly back to shore against the current, as this will quickly lead to exhaustion. Conserve your energy and remember that a rip current will not pull you under the water; it will only carry you away from the shore.
The most effective escape technique is to swim parallel to the shoreline, moving across the current’s flow rather than against it. Since most rip currents are relatively narrow, typically ranging from 15 to 100 yards wide, swimming sideways will allow you to exit the fast-moving channel. Once you are free of the current’s pull, you can then swim at an angle back toward the beach.
If you are unable to swim out of the current, the best course of action is to float or calmly tread water and allow the current to carry you. Rip currents lose their strength and dissipate just beyond the line of breaking waves, at which point you can attempt to swim back to shore. While floating or treading, always draw attention to yourself by facing the shore, waving your arms, and yelling for help.
If you are on the shore and see someone caught in a rip current, immediately call for help from a lifeguard or dial emergency services. Do not attempt a rescue yourself unless you are highly trained. If possible, throw the victim something that floats, like a life ring, cooler, or a boogie board, and instruct them to swim parallel to the shore to escape the current.