The beautiful white trumpet flowers of the Easter lily (\(Lilium\) \(longiflorum\)) are a seasonal delight, but the plant is often mistakenly treated as a temporary annual. These lilies are perennial bulbs that can be successfully transitioned from a potted indoor plant to a thriving outdoor garden. By following a specific care regimen, you can preserve the bulb and encourage it to bloom again in subsequent years. This successful re-establishment requires careful attention to the foliage while the plant is still indoors and a strategic process for moving it outside.
Indoor Care After the Blooms Fade
The immediate steps after the blooms fade focus on preserving the plant’s green leaves, which are the source of energy for the bulb’s next cycle. First, remove the spent flowers, a process known as deadheading, by snipping the flower just below the bloom. This prevents the plant from expending resources on setting seed, which would deplete the bulb’s energy reserve.
The remaining green stalk and foliage must be maintained in bright, indirect light for several weeks. During this period, the leaves conduct photosynthesis to recharge the bulb, storing energy for future growth. Continue to water the plant thoroughly when the top inch of soil feels dry, ensuring the pot has proper drainage to prevent the bulb from sitting in waterlogged conditions.
Gradually reduce the frequency of watering to signal the plant to enter dormancy. The leaves will begin to yellow and turn brown, indicating the bulb is absorbing stored nutrients. Resist the urge to cut back this yellowing foliage; the plant must naturally draw all the energy back into the bulb. Once the foliage has fully browned and died back, typically by late spring or early summer, the plant is ready for the next stage.
Preparing the Bulb for Garden Planting
The bulb should only be moved outdoors once the threat of the last frost has passed, usually in late spring or early summer. Before permanent planting, the indoor-grown lily must undergo hardening off, which acclimates it to harsher outdoor elements like direct sunlight and wind. This process involves placing the potted plant in a shaded, protected outdoor location for a few hours daily and gradually increasing its exposure over one to two weeks.
Once the plant is hardened off, prepare the outdoor planting site. This location should have well-drained soil and exposure to full morning sun, preferably with some afternoon shade. Lilies are susceptible to root rot, so incorporating organic matter like compost or sand can improve drainage before planting.
When transplanting, gently remove the bulb from its pot and plant it deeply, placing the top of the bulb approximately six inches below the soil surface. This deep planting depth encourages the formation of stem roots, which grow above the bulb and help anchor the tall stalk while providing moisture and nutrients. Set the bulb in the hole with the stem roots pointing slightly to the side, and water the area thoroughly to settle the soil. You can cut the dead foliage stalk down to the soil line after the bulb is securely planted.
Ongoing Care for Perennial Growth
After establishing the bulb, focus on providing conditions that encourage long-term perennial growth and re-blooming. During the summer, the plant requires consistent moisture, especially if the weather is hot and dry, but the soil must not become saturated. A layer of organic mulch around the base helps regulate soil temperature, conserves moisture, and keeps the root zone cool.
The \(Lilium\) \(longiflorum\) will not bloom again in the spring; re-blooming typically occurs later in the summer, often around July, which is the plant’s natural flowering period. Once the perennial stalk naturally dies back in the fall, cut it down to the ground. In colder climates, apply a protective layer of mulch after the ground freezes.
This heavy winter mulch, composed of straw or shredded leaves, provides insulation, protecting the bulb from temperature fluctuations. Remove this protective layer in the early spring as new shoots emerge, allowing the soil to warm up. Monitoring for common lily pests, such as the red lily leaf beetle, is also important to ensure the health of the emerging foliage.