The ornamental plant Amaranthus caudatus, widely recognized as Love-Lies-Bleeding, is celebrated for its dramatic, long, drooping flower tassels. This annual species, native to the American tropics, provides a striking visual element in the garden with its vibrant colors and unique form. Successful cultivation begins with accurately identifying the seedling stage, a time when the young plant is most vulnerable and easily mistaken for common garden weeds. Precise identification of the first leaves and stem structures is paramount for ensuring desirable seedlings are nurtured while imposters are removed.
The Appearance of Cotyledons
The first structures to emerge from the soil are the seed leaves, or cotyledons, which look drastically different from the plant’s mature foliage. These initial leaves are generally small, long, and linear, appearing as a pair of narrow, elongated blades. They are typically a uniform, vibrant shade of light green with a smooth, fleshy texture. The cotyledons serve as the plant’s initial food source, absorbing nutrients stored within the seed until the true leaves begin photosynthesis.
The cotyledons sit atop a slender, often reddish or pale green hypocotyl, the initial stem section emerging from the soil. They are remarkably small, usually no more than a centimeter or two in length. Identifying these tiny, simple leaves confirms the young plant is a dicotyledon, but further development is necessary for species-specific confirmation.
Characteristics of the First True Leaves
The first true leaves emerge directly above the cotyledons and are the first visual indication of the plant’s unique identity. These leaves are the initial expression of the Amaranthus family’s characteristic leaf shape, typically appearing as rhombic-ovate or broadly lanceolate. They possess an acute or slightly rounded apex that often terminates in a tiny, sharp point called a mucro. The true leaves exhibit noticeable veining and may already begin to show the plant’s signature color.
The distinctive reddish-purple pigment, caused by compounds called betacyanins, can appear as a subtle flush or a prominent color on the leaf blade or stem. This early coloration is a strong indicator of the ornamental variety. The petiole, or leaf stalk, supporting these true leaves is roughly equal to or slightly shorter than the leaf blade itself. These true leaves alternate along the stem, quickly differentiating the seedling from the initial uniform pair of seed leaves.
How to Differentiate from Common Look-Alikes
Distinguishing Love-Lies-Bleeding from weedy relatives, often collectively called pigweeds, requires close attention to structural details. Many weedy amaranths, such as Redroot Pigweed, possess noticeable fine hairs along their stems and leaf petioles. In contrast, A. caudatus seedlings are generally considered almost glabrous, meaning they are smooth or only very slightly fuzzy on the upper stem, especially when young. This lack of distinct hairiness is a primary visual clue.
Another key difference lies in the proportional length of the petiole relative to the leaf blade. For A. caudatus, the petiole of the true leaves is typically shorter than or roughly the same length as the leaf blade. This contrasts sharply with a species like Palmer Amaranth, where the petiole can be noticeably longer than the leaf blade. The early appearance of a deep red or purple coloration in the true leaves of ornamental varieties is a further distinction that is less common or pronounced in most weedy types.
Early Growth and Hardening Off
Once the true leaves appear, Love-Lies-Bleeding seedlings enter a phase of rapid growth, quickly establishing a central stem and developing a robust root system. For seeds started indoors, this fast development means they should be transplanted, or potted up, relatively soon after the first true leaves fully emerge. The recommended timing for indoor sowing is typically six to eight weeks before the final expected frost date in your region.
Before planting the young seedlings outdoors, they must undergo a process known as “hardening off.” This acclimation gradually prepares the plants for the harsher outdoor conditions, including direct sunlight, wind, and cooler nighttime temperatures. The hardening off process involves exposing the seedlings to the outdoors for increasingly longer periods over approximately seven to ten days. Once this is complete and the danger of frost has passed, the robust seedlings can be safely planted in their final garden location.