Hostas are popular perennial plants known for their abundant foliage that thrives in shaded garden spaces. Although the underground portion is often called a “bulb,” this is a common misnomer. Hostas do not grow from true bulbs, which are specialized storage organs like those found in tulips or onions. Instead, these plants grow from a structure correctly known as a crown or a rhizome, often sold commercially as a bare root division. Understanding this distinction is important for planting, dividing, and ensuring the plant’s long-term health.
The Anatomy of a Hosta Crown
The hosta crown is the woody, dense rootstock where the roots and the above-ground shoots converge. This central structure functions as the plant’s energy storage unit during its dormant period in winter. When purchasing a dormant hosta, you are acquiring this crown, which is the base of the plant.
Extending from the crown are the roots, which are typically thick, fleshy, and light-colored, often white or tan. They are plump and robust, designed to anchor the plant and absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil. The texture of these roots is distinct, often described as having a woody or rope-like feel, which contributes to the plant’s hardiness.
The most noticeable features on the crown are the “eyes,” which are the small, pointed buds where new leaves will emerge. These eyes are the growing points of the hosta and are sometimes referred to as pips. Healthy eyes can be pink, white, or green, and the number of visible eyes is a measure of the division’s size and potential for new growth. Each eye will produce a flush of leaves, leading to the lush, mounding habit hostas are prized for.
Identifying Healthy Planting Stock
When examining a hosta crown, whether purchased bare root or divided from an existing plant, the first assessment should be for firmness. A healthy crown must feel solid and dense to the touch, not spongy or soft, which indicates rot or damage. The crown’s integrity is important because it contains the stored energy the plant needs to begin its growth cycle.
The roots attached to the crown should be light in color (white or tan) and flexible, not brittle. Dark, black, or mushy roots are a sign of decay and must be trimmed away before planting. A viable crown will have visible, intact eyes; avoid crowns where the eyes appear shriveled, damaged, or completely missing, as this hinders successful leaf emergence.
If a bare root crown appears dry upon arrival, it can be rehydrated before planting. Soaking the entire root system in room-temperature water for 30 to 60 minutes helps restore moisture to the roots and crown. This prepares the plant for immediate nutrient uptake once it is placed into the soil.
Preparing the Crown for Planting
Once the crown’s health is confirmed, proper orientation during planting is important for successful establishment. The crown, with its eyes, must be positioned so that the buds face upward toward the soil surface, as this is the direction the leaves will naturally grow. The planting hole should be dug wide enough to accommodate the full spread of the roots without bending or breaking them.
It is helpful to create a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole, draping the roots down and around this mound like the spokes of a wheel. The planting depth is shallow, with the goal of placing the top of the crown, where the eyes are located, just at or slightly below the surrounding soil line. Positioning the crown too deep can inhibit the eyes from emerging and may lead to rot.
After setting the crown, gently backfill the hole with soil, firming it lightly around the roots to eliminate air pockets. Immediately after planting, a thorough watering is necessary; this settles the soil and helps ensure good contact between the roots and the surrounding soil particles. Consistent moisture during the first year of growth will support the development of a robust root system, allowing the new hosta to thrive.