Climbing roses are vigorous, long-caned plants trained vertically against structures like arbors, trellises, and fences, distinguishing them from shrub roses. As temperatures drop and daylight hours shorten, these roses enter dormancy. This winter rest allows the plant to conserve energy, develop cold resistance, and prepare for the next season’s growth. Understanding the appearance of a dormant climbing rose ensures it successfully navigates the coldest months. This phase reveals the plant’s underlying structure, which is typically obscured by summer foliage.
The Visual State of Dormancy
The most noticeable characteristic of a climbing rose in winter is its bare, skeletal form. The plant sheds its leaves as it enters dormancy, a survival mechanism that minimizes moisture loss when the ground is frozen and water uptake is difficult. This lack of foliage and flowers means the vibrant colors of summer vanish, leaving a network of woody canes clinging to the support structure.
The stark appearance offers a dramatic contrast against the winter landscape. Some varieties may retain small, colorful fruits called hips after the final bloom set. These hips contain the rose’s seeds and may be consumed by birds. The plant’s biological activity above ground is nearly paused, concentrating resources in the root system until spring returns.
Appearance of the Canes and Woody Structure
Once the foliage drops, the true structure of the climbing rose is revealed, consisting of thick, enduring canes. The color of these woody stems varies by age and cultivar, generally ranging from deep green to reddish-brown or dull purple. Newer, younger canes often display a smoother texture and a brighter green or reddish hue, indicating recent growth.
Older, thicker canes near the base are typically a darker gray or brown with a rougher, woodier texture. This exposed structure clearly shows how the plant is attached to its support with ties, showcasing the training that occurred. Along the length of all canes, small, tight nodes are visible; these are the dormant buds that will swell into new shoots in spring. The thorns remain sharp and prominent on the exposed stems.
Distinguishing Dormancy from Death
A common concern in winter is mistaking a dormant rose for one that has perished, especially since the canes appear lifeless. A healthy dormant cane feels firm and solid, maintaining its characteristic color, even if muted. Dead or severely damaged canes, conversely, appear shriveled, brittle, and exhibit black or dark brown discoloration, especially toward the tips.
To definitively check the viability of a cane, use the “scratch test,” which involves lightly scraping the outermost layer of the bark. A healthy cane will reveal a bright, vibrant green layer of living tissue (cambium) immediately beneath the bark. If the tissue is brown, dry, or black, that section has died back due to cold, disease, or dehydration. Winter-damaged canes must be pruned back until the interior pith shows a clean, moist, white or pale apple-green color, confirming only healthy wood remains.
Essential Winter Care
Specific maintenance tasks during the winter focus on protecting the plant’s core and minimizing damage from environmental stresses.
Dormant Pruning
Pruning during dormancy focuses on removing dead, diseased, or severely damaged wood, cutting back to healthy tissue to prevent pathogen spread. Also remove any weak, twiggy growth that will not contribute to the next season’s framework.
Protecting the Graft Union
Protection of the graft union is paramount, particularly in colder climates. The graft union is the swollen area at the base where the rose is joined to the rootstock. Insulate this area by “hilling,” which involves mounding loose material like soil or mulch several inches deep around the base.
Securing Canes
The long, exposed canes must be secured tightly to their support. This prevents “wind rock,” where strong winter winds cause the canes to whip around, loosening the plant or causing damage where the canes rub.