A blueberry bush is a deciduous perennial shrub that prepares for cold weather by entering a deep state of rest called dormancy. This natural process is a survival mechanism, allowing the plant to tolerate freezing temperatures until conditions improve for new growth in spring. Shedding its leaves in the fall completely changes its appearance for the winter months. This leafless state allows the gardener to clearly see the woody structure and the subtle signs of next year’s potential harvest.
Visual Characteristics of Dormancy
The most striking feature of a dormant blueberry bush is the vibrancy of its canes. New growth from the previous season often changes color, transitioning to shades of deep maroon, bright red, or sometimes yellow and orange. This winter coloration contrasts sharply with older, less productive canes, which typically appear gray or tan and rougher in texture. The brilliant color of the new wood is a visual signal of the plant’s health, as it is responsible for the following season’s fruit.
Without leaves, the structure of the bush is fully exposed, revealing its multi-stemmed, cane-like habit. Highbush varieties stand tall and upright, forming a crown that can reach six to twelve feet when mature. Conversely, Lowbush varieties maintain a shorter, more sprawling appearance, rarely exceeding two feet in height. The leafless profile allows for easy identification of crossing or damaged wood that needs to be removed during pruning.
Close inspection of the dormant canes reveals two distinct types of buds, which indicate future growth. Vegetative buds are small, flat, and pointed, producing new leaves and shoots in the spring. In contrast, fruit or flower buds are noticeably larger, rounder, and plumper than their vegetative counterparts. These larger buds are generally located toward the tips of the one-year-old wood and contain the cluster of flowers that will eventually become the blueberry harvest.
Essential Winter Care
The dormant period is the ideal time to perform structural pruning for maintaining productivity. This work is ideally done in late winter or very early spring, before the buds begin to swell. The main objective is to remove any old, gray, or unproductive canes, along with any dead or weak growth that clutters the center of the bush. Removing the oldest canes encourages the plant to put energy into growing new, colorful, and highly productive wood.
Applying a thick layer of organic mulch around the base of the bush is essential. A two- to four-inch layer of acidic material, such as pine needles, wood chips, or pine bark, helps insulate the shallow root system. This mulch prevents the soil from experiencing extreme temperature fluctuations, which can cause the damaging freeze-thaw cycle known as frost heave. It also conserves moisture throughout the winter.
Even while dormant, the roots require moisture to prevent desiccation, especially in regions with dry winters or little snow cover. If the weather is consistently dry, the plants benefit from occasional deep watering until the ground freezes solid. The water helps protect the roots against cold damage. Once the ground is frozen, no further watering is needed until the spring thaw.