November marks a significant transition in the gardening year, shifting focus from active growth to preparation for winter and spring. Successful planting requires timing efforts to align with local climatic conditions. Gardeners focus on establishing plants that require a cold period to flourish or those that can develop robust root systems before the soil freezes completely. Maximizing November efforts requires a precise understanding of what your specific geographic location allows.
Understanding Your Hardiness Zone
Geographic location is the greatest determinant of what can be planted successfully in November. The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map provides a framework based on the average annual minimum winter temperature, which dictates the long-term survivability of perennial plants. Knowing your zone determines how soon the ground will freeze and how long the cold-weather growing window remains open.
This zone information must be combined with the average date of your region’s first frost. The first frost date is the point when temperatures typically drop to 32°F (0°C), signaling the end of the season for tender plants. Planting decisions in November are split between crops intended for late-fall harvest in milder zones and plants that require overwintering to bloom or produce fruit the following year.
Planting Spring-Blooming Bulbs
November is the last opportunity to plant spring-flowering bulbs, such as tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths, before the soil becomes unworkable. These bulbs require a sustained period of cold temperatures, a process called vernalization, to initiate flower bud development. If planted too late, they may not receive the necessary 10 to 12 weeks of chilling, resulting in poor or absent blooms in the spring.
Planting depth is important for proper growth and protection. A general rule is setting the bulb two to three times as deep as its height. For large bulbs like daffodils and tulips, this means digging a hole six to eight inches deep, ensuring the pointed end faces upward. Proper spacing, typically three to six inches apart, allows the bulbs to multiply over time and prevents overcrowding.
After planting, watering the area helps settle the soil and provides moisture for initial root growth before the deep winter freeze. Since bulbs are a preferred food source for many small animals, protect the planting area. Laying down a layer of wire mesh or planting bulbs in protective baskets can deter pests like squirrels and voles.
Cold-Hardy Vegetables and Cover Crops
In many regions, November allows for planting specific edible crops, either for a late-season harvest or for overwintering. Garlic is a prime example of a crop that must be planted now, with individual cloves set into the soil about two inches deep, pointed side up. The cold period is necessary for vernalization, which causes the single planted clove to divide into a multi-cloved bulb, ready for harvest the following summer.
Other cold-tolerant edibles, particularly in zones where the ground does not freeze hard, can still be sown directly for a continuous supply of greens. Vegetables like kale and spinach possess resilience, with some varieties of kale tolerating temperatures as low as 10°F. Swiss chard and certain varieties of lettuce also withstand light frosts, which often enhances their flavor by increasing sugar concentration in the leaves.
November is also an ideal time to sow cover crops, which are planted not for immediate harvest but for the benefit of the soil. Planting a cover crop, such as winter rye or clover, helps prevent soil erosion during winter rains and snowfall. These plants establish a root network that holds the soil in place and, when tilled under in spring, they add organic matter, improving soil structure and fertility.
Transplanting Dormant Trees and Shrubs
November is an excellent month for transplanting and installing new woody plants, including deciduous trees, roses, and shrubs. This timing capitalizes on the plant’s natural dormancy period, which is triggered by a hard freeze that stops active top growth. Planting during this dormant state minimizes the shock and stress that would be experienced during the warmer, active growing season.
While the air temperature cools, the soil often remains warm enough to encourage root activity. This allows the plant to establish a strong base without the energy demands of supporting new leaves. This period of root establishment prepares the plant for the stresses of the following summer’s heat and drought.
Digging a planting hole two to three times wider than the root ball provides loose soil for new roots to easily penetrate and expand. After placing the plant, ensure the root flare is at or slightly above the surrounding soil level to prevent water collection and potential root rot. A deep, thorough watering immediately after planting removes air pockets around the roots, and a thick layer of organic mulch helps regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture throughout the winter.