The east side of a house creates a unique microclimate highly beneficial for a wide range of garden plants. This location provides a predictable pattern of sun exposure that softens the intensity of the day’s heat, making it an excellent spot for many species that struggle in full, direct sun. Successfully selecting plants involves understanding the light profile, choosing species that thrive in these conditions, and preparing the soil near the foundation to ensure long-term plant health and structural integrity.
Defining the East-Facing Light Profile
The defining characteristic of an east-facing location is gentle morning sun followed by cool, consistent afternoon shade. From sunrise until approximately noon, the area receives direct sunlight, which is relatively mild because air temperatures are still low. This early light is ideal for photosynthesis without the risk of scorching foliage.
After the sun passes its zenith, the house structure casts the area into shadow for the rest of the day. This deep, cool shade protects plants from intense, high-heat afternoon sun, which can cause wilting and stress. The wall also acts as a windbreak, reducing moisture loss from the leaves and soil. This combination of bright, cool morning light and protective afternoon shade is often classified as “part shade” or “part sun.”
Recommendations for Perennials and Groundcovers
Plants that thrive in this environment prefer cool, moist root systems and protection from midday heat. Hostas are a classic choice, offering lush foliage in shades of blue, green, and variegation that appears brightest in filtered light. Their robust leaves are less likely to scorch in the morning sun.
Astilbe is another excellent option, known for its fern-like foliage and airy plumes of white, pink, or red flowers. Astilbe requires consistent moisture and performs poorly in direct, hot sun. The cool afternoon shade helps prevent the soil from drying out quickly, making the east side a perfect fit.
Other reliable herbaceous perennials appreciate morning light to set buds but need afternoon shade to maintain vibrant color. These include:
- Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis) with delicate, heart-shaped flowers.
- Coral Bells (Heuchera) with bell-shaped blooms.
- Siberian Bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla), which provides attractive, variegated foliage and tiny blue spring flowers, acting as a superb groundcover.
Shrubs and Structural Plant Options
For permanent structure and year-round interest, several woody shrubs are well-suited to the east-facing exposure. Hydrangeas, particularly the smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) and the oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), flourish with morning sun and afternoon shade. The oakleaf hydrangea provides multi-season appeal with distinctive lobed leaves, peeling bark, and excellent fall color in shades of burgundy and bronze.
Rhododendrons and Azaleas are also highly recommended. These broadleaf evergreens require acidic soil and filtered light, as their shallow root systems are prone to drying out and leaves can burn easily in intense sunlight. The morning sun encourages prolific flowering, while the afternoon shade prevents heat stress. Compact cultivars of Boxwood (Buxus) are effective structural choices, providing evergreen definition that tolerates limited daily sun exposure.
Preparing the Soil and Planting Near the Foundation
Planting near a house foundation requires addressing soil quality and proper spacing. Soil adjacent to a structure is often highly compacted and contaminated with construction debris or nutrient-poor clay subsoil. Amend this soil heavily by incorporating significant amounts of organic matter, such as compost, to improve drainage and aeration.
To protect the foundation and plants, maintain a minimum distance of 18 to 36 inches between the mature plant’s base and the wall. This spacing allows for air circulation, helping the siding dry out and preventing moisture buildup. The soil must be graded to slope away from the house, ensuring water drains away from the structure. Be mindful of roof overhangs, as these can create a surprisingly dry zone near the wall, potentially requiring supplemental irrigation.