Pruners are handheld tools designed for making clean cuts on woody plants. Gardeners use them to remove small branches, trim dead or diseased wood, and shape shrubs or trees. Regular pruning encourages healthy growth by directing the plant’s energy and improving air circulation. Selecting and maintaining the correct tool ensures both the longevity of the equipment and the proper healing of the plant.
Understanding Hand Pruner Mechanisms
When working with materials typically less than three-quarters of an inch in diameter, gardeners primarily rely on two distinct types of one-handed pruner mechanisms: bypass and anvil. The bypass pruner operates with two curved blades that slide past each other, much like a pair of scissors. This shearing action creates a precise, angled wound on the stem that minimizes physical damage to delicate plant structures.
Bypass pruners are preferred for cutting green, living stems where tissue preservation is necessary for rapid recovery. The precise cut allows the plant to seal the wound efficiently, a process known as compartmentalization. This minimizes the wound surface area and helps inhibit the entry of pathogens.
In contrast, anvil pruners feature a sharp, straight blade that closes down onto a flat metal plate, or “anvil.” The blade shears through the material by pressing it against the softer metal surface. This process results in a crushing action on the stem, making it unsuitable for live, tender growth.
Anvil tools are best reserved for removing deadwood, dried-out branches, or inactive, heavily lignified stems. Since the wood is no longer alive, the crushing damage does not impede healing. The design often makes it easier to cut through very hard material with less effort than a bypass mechanism. Hand pruners, regardless of mechanism, are designed for one-handed operation and typically handle material up to three-quarters of an inch in diameter.
Pruning Tools for Larger Diameter Cuts
When branches exceed the capacity of handheld pruners, gardeners transition to loppers, which provide increased mechanical advantage. Loppers are large, two-handled pruners that use long handles to multiply the force applied. This leverage allows them to cut through branches up to one and a half to two inches in diameter.
Like hand pruners, loppers are available in both bypass and anvil configurations. The extended length of the handles significantly reduces the physical effort required to sever the material. The extended reach also allows for cuts deeper into dense shrubs or higher up on small trees.
For any material exceeding the two-inch limit, a pruning saw becomes the necessary tool. These saws are designed with specialized tooth patterns that efficiently cut through thick, woody material on the pull stroke. Unlike shears that rely on compression or shearing, the saw removes material through abrasion, creating sawdust.
Pruning saws can be straight or curved, with curved blades often preferred for their ability to grab the wood and maintain cutting efficiency. Saws are required for making larger cuts, such as removing large limbs from trees. Proper saw use ensures a smooth cut surface, which aids in the formation of callus tissue that seals the wound.
Maintaining Tool Performance and Longevity
After each use, pruners, loppers, and saws should be thoroughly cleaned to remove plant sap, resins, and soil debris. Plant sap quickly dulls blades and encourages rust formation if left in place. A solution of warm water and soap, or a dedicated solvent, helps dissolve sticky residues and ensures the tool’s action remains smooth.
Disinfecting the blades with an alcohol or bleach solution is important after cutting diseased plant material to prevent pathogen transmission. Maintaining a sharp cutting edge is important for plant health, as a dull blade tears the stem rather than slicing it cleanly. Sharpening should follow the original bevel angle of the blade, typically using a whetstone or specialized sharpener.
Once cleaned and sharpened, tools require lubrication and proper storage to prevent corrosion. Applying a light machine oil to the blade surfaces and the pivot point reduces friction and creates a barrier against moisture. Storing tools in a dry environment, away from direct ground contact, extends their functional lifespan.