Blackheads are small, dark-colored bumps that form when a pore becomes clogged with a mixture of dead skin cells and oil. Unlike pimples, they aren’t red or inflamed. The dark color isn’t dirt. It’s the result of the plug inside the pore being exposed to air, which oxidizes and turns black. Blackheads are one of the mildest forms of acne, and they’re extremely common.
How Blackheads Form
Your skin is covered in tiny openings called pores, each connected to a hair follicle and an oil-producing gland beneath the surface. These glands constantly release oil (sebum) that travels up through the pore to keep your skin moisturized. A blackhead forms when dead skin cells stick together inside the pore instead of shedding normally, mixing with oil to create a plug that stretches the pore open.
Because the pore stays open at the surface, the material inside is exposed to oxygen. This triggers a chemical reaction that turns the plug dark brown or black. That’s the key difference between a blackhead and a whitehead: whiteheads are closed over at the surface, so the plug stays white or flesh-colored. Blackheads are open, so they oxidize.
Under a microscope, a blackhead is a massively dilated follicle filled with a compacted mass of skin cell debris. The oil gland attached to the follicle often shrinks or disappears entirely as the plug takes over the space.
What Causes Them
Anything that increases oil production or interferes with how your skin sheds dead cells can trigger blackheads. Hormonal changes are the most common driver. When androgen hormones rise, particularly during puberty, menstruation, or testosterone treatment, your oil glands ramp up production, giving dead skin cells more material to stick to. This is why blackheads tend to cluster on the nose, chin, and forehead, where oil glands are most concentrated.
Other contributing factors include skincare or makeup products that block pores (often labeled “comedogenic”), heavy sweating, and humidity. Some people are simply more prone to blackheads because of genetics. If your skin naturally produces more oil or sheds cells irregularly, you’ll deal with them more often regardless of how well you cleanse.
Blackheads vs. Sebaceous Filaments
Many people mistake sebaceous filaments for blackheads, especially on the nose. Sebaceous filaments are not acne. They’re a normal part of your skin’s structure, tiny channels that guide oil to the surface. They don’t contain a plug, so oil flows through them freely.
The visual differences are subtle but important. Blackheads look like a dark speck sitting in a raised bump. Sebaceous filaments are smaller, flat, and lighter in color, typically gray, light brown, or yellowish. If you squeeze a blackhead, a dark, waxy plug pops out. Squeeze a sebaceous filament and you’ll get a thin, threadlike strand of wax, but it will refill within days because it’s a permanent feature of the pore, not a blockage. Trying to extract sebaceous filaments is pointless and can irritate your skin.
Why You Shouldn’t Squeeze Them
Picking or squeezing blackheads is tempting but risky. The pressure can push bacteria deeper into the skin, turning a simple clogged pore into an inflamed, infected breakout. It can also damage the surrounding tissue. The NHS specifically warns that squeezing spots increases the risk of permanent scarring, even with non-inflammatory acne like blackheads. If you want a blackhead professionally extracted, a dermatologist or licensed aesthetician can do it with sterile tools and proper technique, which minimizes these risks.
Treatments That Work
Blackheads respond well to topical treatments because the pore is open, making the plug accessible to ingredients applied on the skin’s surface. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends several options for comedonal acne, including salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and topical retinoids. Using products that combine multiple mechanisms tends to be more effective than relying on a single ingredient.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is the most widely available over-the-counter option. It’s oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate into the pore and dissolve the dead skin cells clogging it. OTC products range from 0.5% to 2% in cleansers, pads, and solutions, while gels can go up to 7%. For most people, a daily cleanser or leave-on treatment in the 2% range is a practical starting point. It works best with consistent use over weeks rather than as a spot treatment.
Retinoids
Retinoids are considered the gold standard for blackheads. They work by speeding up the rate at which skin cells turn over, preventing dead cells from accumulating and forming plugs in the first place. They also loosen existing plugs by disrupting the bonds that hold compacted skin cells together. Over-the-counter retinol products are milder, while prescription-strength retinoids are more potent. Retinoids can cause dryness and peeling in the first few weeks, which typically settles as your skin adjusts.
Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide is better known for killing acne-causing bacteria, but it also helps break down the material inside clogged pores. It’s particularly useful when blackheads coexist with inflammatory acne. It comes in concentrations from 2.5% to 10%, though higher percentages aren’t necessarily more effective for blackheads and are more likely to dry out your skin.
Preventing New Blackheads
Because blackheads are driven by your skin’s natural oil production and cell turnover cycle, they tend to recur. Prevention is really about maintenance. A consistent routine with one or two active ingredients (salicylic acid or a retinoid) keeps pores clear over time. Look for moisturizers and sunscreens labeled “non-comedogenic,” meaning they’re formulated not to block pores.
Washing your face twice a day is generally enough. Over-cleansing can strip your skin’s natural moisture barrier, which paradoxically triggers more oil production. If you wear makeup, double cleansing at night (an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based one) helps remove pore-clogging residue that a single wash can miss.