Cashmere is a natural fiber valued for its luxurious softness and warmth. This sought-after textile originates primarily from the Cashmere Goat, an animal specifically adapted to produce the fine undercoat that distinguishes this fiber.
The Cashmere Goat
Cashmere fiber comes from the fine, soft winter undercoat of Cashmere goats (Capra hircus). These goats are not a single breed, but a type that produces this specific quality of fiber. They are found in harsh, cold climates like Mongolia, Tibet, China, Iran, and Afghanistan, where their coats develop to protect them from extreme temperatures.
The undercoat, sometimes called pashm or pashmina, grows as days shorten and is distinct from coarser guard hairs. While many goat breeds have a double fleece, Cashmere goats are selectively bred for significant amounts of this fine underdown. Notable types include the Changthangi (Pashmina) goat, recognized for producing some of the finest cashmere with fiber diameters between 12-13 micrometers, and the Inner Mongolia cashmere goat. These animals can display a range of coat colors, including white, brown, black, and grey.
Harvesting Cashmere
Cashmere fiber collection is a seasonal and labor-intensive process. Goats naturally shed their winter undercoat during the spring molting season, typically from March to May in the Northern Hemisphere. Harvesters primarily use two methods to collect the fiber: combing or shearing. Combing involves gently removing the fine undercoat by hand with a coarse comb, separating it from coarser guard hairs and maintaining fiber length.
Shearing is another method, common in areas like Iran, Afghanistan, New Zealand, and Australia, though it can result in a higher content of coarse hairs. Regardless of the collection method, raw cashmere undergoes a de-hairing process. This mechanical step separates fine cashmere fibers from coarser guard hairs, ensuring product purity. The yield of usable cashmere fiber from each goat is relatively small, ranging from a few grams to 0.5 kilograms annually, which contributes to its value.
Unique Properties of Cashmere
Cashmere is valued for its exceptional softness, lightweight feel, and remarkable warmth-to-weight ratio. These properties stem from the unique structure of the individual cashmere fibers. The fibers are notably fine, typically measuring between 14 and 19 micrometers in diameter, making them significantly finer than most wool fibers. This delicate diameter contributes to cashmere’s characteristic smooth feel against the skin.
The natural waves, or crimp, in cashmere fibers enhance its insulating capabilities. These crimps create tiny air pockets within the fabric, effectively trapping warmth and providing a thermal barrier without adding bulk. Cashmere fibers are often hollow, contributing to their insulating properties and breathability. This allows cashmere garments to absorb moisture and regulate body temperature, providing comfort across various climates.