The rhythmic tapping of a woodpecker can quickly turn into a source of frustration for homeowners when that drilling targets wooden siding or trim instead of a forest tree. This damage, often mistaken for simple feeding, can range from small cosmetic holes to significant structural cavities. Addressing this problem requires understanding the bird’s motivation and employing a combination of humane, legal, and persistent deterrent strategies. This article details specific methods that successfully repel woodpeckers from residential structures.
Understanding Woodpecker Motivations
Woodpeckers target structures for three main reasons, and identifying the behavior is the initial step toward effective deterrence. The first is “drumming,” a loud, rapid, non-destructive pecking used primarily in the spring to establish territory and attract a mate. This activity often targets highly resonant surfaces like metal chimneys, gutters, or hollow siding, resulting in small dents or clustered marks.
The second motivation is the excavation of a nesting or roosting cavity, which causes the most severe damage. These holes are typically large, perfectly rounded, and often bored into softer woods, like cedar or redwood, or into synthetic stucco and foam insulation. Roosting occurs in the fall and winter for warmth, while nesting takes place during the spring breeding season.
The third reason is foraging for insects, which is often indicated by scattered, irregular holes and shredded wood particles. The birds search for insect larvae, such as carpenter bees or wood-boring beetles, living beneath the surface. Eliminating any underlying insect infestation is a necessary part of deterring foraging woodpeckers.
Physical Exclusion and Barrier Methods
Physical exclusion is frequently the most reliable, long-term solution because it completely blocks the bird’s access to the damaged surface. The most common method involves installing fine-mesh bird netting, specifically a lightweight, UV-protected polypropylene material with a 3/4-inch mesh size. This netting must be securely attached to the eaves and angled down, held taut at least three inches away from the siding, preventing the bird from pecking through the barrier.
For smaller, localized areas, vulnerable sections can be covered with rigid materials like sheet metal or aluminum flashing, which can then be painted to match the exterior. Alternatively, a coarse, galvanized 1/4-inch hardware cloth can be cut and secured directly over the damaged site. This wire mesh prevents the bird’s beak from reaching the wood, and it can be secured using small spacers to hold it slightly away from the surface.
If a large cavity has already been excavated, installing a backing of hardware cloth inside the hole before repair can prevent the bird from re-drilling the same spot. Since woodpeckers are persistent, these physical barriers may need to be expanded if the bird simply moves to an unprotected area nearby.
Visual and Auditory Deterrents
Deterrents relying on sight or sound are effective as a first line of defense, but require frequent maintenance to prevent habituation. Visual deterrents should involve movement and reflection, such as holographic reflective tape or Mylar streamers, which flash erratically in the sunlight and wind. These materials should be hung directly near the damaged area to create a confusing, constantly shifting visual environment.
Stationary visual deterrents, such as plastic owl or hawk decoys, lose effectiveness quickly once the woodpecker realizes the predator is not a real threat. If using decoys, they must be moved to a new location every few days to maintain the illusion of an active threat. Combining movement with light significantly improves the deterrent effect.
Auditory deterrents, such as electronic devices broadcasting predator calls or distress signals, can be used. However, these sounds must be varied and played randomly to avoid the birds becoming accustomed to the noise. High-frequency or ultrasonic devices are ineffective as their sound range often exceeds the audible hearing range of most bird species.
Taste-Based and Tactile Repellents
Repellents applied directly to the surface work by making the wood unpleasant to touch or taste, encouraging the bird to move on. Tactile repellents include non-toxic, commercially available sticky gels or liquids that make the landing surface uncomfortable. It is important to use products specifically designed as bird repellents, as generic sticky substances can fatally injure or trap birds by fouling their feathers.
Specialized commercial products, such as Bird Barrier Optical Gel, combine a tactile deterrent with a strong scent like peppermint or citronella, which many birds find irritating. This multi-sensory approach increases the likelihood of the bird avoiding the treated area. These gels are applied in small dishes or beads, making the area undesirable for landing.
Taste-based deterrents utilize capsaicin, the compound found in chili peppers, in a non-toxic spray or paint additive. While birds do not experience the burning sensation like mammals do, the strong taste and odor can still discourage pecking. Methyl Anthranilate, a grape seed extract used in repellent sprays and paint additives, is a more reliably irritating commercial alternative that birds find noxious.
Legal Protections and Damage Repair
#### Legal Protections
Most woodpecker species in the United States are protected under the federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act (MBTA), which prohibits harming, trapping, or killing the birds without a specific federal depredation permit. This protection means that all deterrence efforts must be non-lethal and humane. If a bird is actively nesting in a cavity, it is illegal to block the entrance until the young have fledged.
#### Damage Repair
Immediate and thorough repair of existing damage is necessary because woodpeckers are attracted to established sites. For small foraging holes, repair involves filling the void with a durable exterior-rated material like two-part epoxy resin or a polyester filler, which is more flexible and water-resistant than standard wood putty. For large nesting holes, it is necessary to fill the deep cavity with non-expanding spray foam or hardware cloth backing before covering the exterior with the epoxy filler.
Once the filler has cured, the area should be sanded smooth and painted to match the surrounding siding. This step is crucial for sealing the wood against moisture and preventing insect re-entry.