The question of whether to cut the stem of an orchid arises once the flowers have faded. For the common household orchid, the Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid), this “stem” is technically a flower spike. Pruning the spike requires careful observation of its condition, as the action impacts the plant’s health and potential to rebloom. A strategic cut can encourage secondary flowering, while removing the spike allows the plant to conserve energy for a stronger bloom the following season.
Determining the Stem’s Viability
Assess the color and texture of the spent flower spike before making any cut. A healthy spike that still contains stored energy will remain a vibrant green color and feel firm to the touch after the flowers have dropped off. This green color indicates the spike is still alive and possesses dormant nodes, often called “eyes,” which can produce a new, smaller secondary flower spike.
If the spike is turning yellow, shriveling, or has completely dried out and turned brown, it is no longer viable and cannot rebloom. This discoloration is the plant’s natural way of diverting resources back into its main body before the spike dies off. An unviable spike should be removed entirely. This allows the plant to focus its energy reserves on developing roots and leaves for a stronger, healthier growth cycle.
Precise Pruning Techniques
The method for pruning depends entirely on the viability assessment of the flower spike. Regardless of the technique, first sterilize the cutting tool (e.g., razor blade or sharp shears) by wiping it with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution. This simple step prevents the transmission of pathogens from the tool to the open wound on the orchid.
When the spike remains green and plump, signaling viability, the aim is to stimulate the growth of a secondary spike from a dormant node. The cut should be made about half an inch above the second or third node counting up from the base of the plant. These nodes appear as small, triangular, or ring-like bumps protected by a thin sheath on the spike. Cutting above a lower node maximizes the chance of a secondary spike emerging, leading to another bloom within two to three months.
If the flower spike has turned fully brown or yellow, it is considered dead and must be removed. The cut should be made close to the base of the plant, near the crown where the spike emerges from the leaves. Leave a small stub, approximately one inch tall, to ensure the cut remains above the crown. This prevents water from pooling in the center of the plant, which can lead to fungal infection or rot.
For the cut surface, some growers recommend dusting it with ground cinnamon, which acts as a natural antifungal agent. Removing a non-viable spike allows the orchid to enter a resting period focused on vegetative growth, resulting in larger leaves and a more robust root system. This conserved energy supports a larger, more prolific primary bloom during the next natural flowering season.
Encouraging New Blooms After Pruning
Once pruning is complete, specific environmental adjustments are needed to trigger a new bloom cycle. The Phalaenopsis orchid requires a temperature differential to initiate the growth of a new flower spike. Providing a noticeable difference of about 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit between daytime and nighttime temperatures for several weeks is the stimulus needed to encourage reblooming.
This temperature fluctuation mimics the orchid’s natural habitat, signaling that conditions are right for flowering. During this period, the plant still requires consistent care, especially in terms of light and nutrition. The orchid must receive bright, indirect light to photosynthesize effectively and gather the energy required to produce a new spike.
Maintaining a regular watering routine is essential, ensuring the potting medium is allowed to almost dry out before watering again to prevent root rot. Fertilization should be consistent, with many growers suggesting a switch to a “bloom booster” formula. This formula is a fertilizer with a higher concentration of phosphorus (e.g., NPK ratio of 10-30-20). This high-phosphorus feeding supports the development of the new spike by helping the plant transition out of its vegetative state and into a flowering cycle.